Sights in Murcia
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A
Gran Casino Murcia
Murcia's resplendent casino first opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847. Beyond the decorative facade, completed in 1901, are an Arab-style vestibule and a patio. Penetrate as far as the magnificent ballroom and pop €1.00 in the slot for the 320 lamps of its candelabra to shimmer with light as Strauss's Radetsky March wafts from all corners.
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B
Catedral de Santa Maria
Murcia's cathedral was built in 1394 on the site of a mosque. The initial Gothic architecture was given a playful baroque facelift in 1748. The 15th-century Capilla de los Vélez is a highlight; the chapel's flutes and curls resemble piped icing. The Museo de la Catedral displays religious artefacts, but is most striking for the excavations on display: the remains of an 11th-century Moorish dwelling and of a small mezquita (mosque), visible below a glass walkway.
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La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo
Located in the tiny village of Ceutí, La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, 24km northwest of Murcia, opened in May 2009 as an artistic centre showcasing well-known international contemporary artists and sculptors whose work shares a common concept. The exhibition centre is housed in a converted cannery stripped of machinery. The result is vast spaces covering 4800 sq m, ideal for these spacious, light-filled galleries.
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C
Museo Salzillo
Located in the baroque chapel of Ermita de Jesús and devoted to Murcian sculptor Francisco Salzillo (1707–83). The highlights are his exquisite pasos (figures carried in Semana Santa processions) and carved-wood nativity figurines. To get here head west from Gran Via del Escultor Francsico Salzillo along Calle Santa Teresa.
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D
Museo de la Ciudad
Housed in the villa of a prominent Murcia family of the 16th century, the City Museum diligently records the history of the city and region, with a particular emphasis on the region's art, crafts and ethnography. To the rear of the building is an orchard dating back to Muslim times, watered by the Caravija aqueduct.
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E
Museo de Bellas Artes
An inviting, light gallery devoted to Spanish artists. The 2nd-floor Siglo de Oro gallery includes canvases by Murillo, Zurbarán and by ‘Lo Spagnoletto’, José (Jusepe) de Ribera. For a break from all that religious piety, don’t miss the superbly kitsch dazzle of glamorous señoritas on the 3rd floor.
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F
Museo de Santa Clara
Museo de Santa Clara is a recently restored Muslim palace. It has an exquisite courtyard and an important collection of Islamic art within a closed-order convent with its own rich treasures, assembled over the centuries. Phone to reserve a 45-minute guided tour in English.
reviewed
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G
City Hall
Rafael Moneo's extension to Murcia city's 19th-century city hall has been the subject of hot debate. Looking something like an empty book-case, it either lets a much-needed breath of air into the heavily elaborate square or defaces it: you be the judge.
reviewed
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H
Museo de la Ciencia y del Agua
Beside the river and one for the children. Although everything's in Spanish, this small hands-on science museum has plenty of buttons to press and knobs to twirl, plus fish tanks and a small planetarium.
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I
Museo Hidráulico
Giant grindstones and delicate working models are the permanent features of Museo Hidráulico, a restored water mill that's also used for temporary exhibitions.
reviewed
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