Things to do in Murcia & The Costa Calída
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Gran Casino Murcia
Murcia's resplendent casino first opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847. Beyond the decorative facade, completed in 1901, are an Arab-style vestibule and a patio. Penetrate as far as the magnificent ballroom and pop €1.00 in the slot for the 320 lamps of its candelabra to shimmer with light as Strauss's Radetsky March wafts from all corners.
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Catedral de Santa Maria
Murcia's cathedral was built in 1394 on the site of a mosque. The initial Gothic architecture was given a playful baroque facelift in 1748. The 15th-century Capilla de los Vélez is a highlight; the chapel's flutes and curls resemble piped icing. The Museo de la Catedral displays religious artefacts, but is most striking for the excavations on display: the remains of an 11th-century Moorish dwelling and of a small mezquita (mosque), visible below a glass walkway.
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La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo
Located in the tiny village of Ceutí, La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, 24km northwest of Murcia, opened in May 2009 as an artistic centre showcasing well-known international contemporary artists and sculptors whose work shares a common concept. The exhibition centre is housed in a converted cannery stripped of machinery. The result is vast spaces covering 4800 sq m, ideal for these spacious, light-filled galleries.
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Casino
Murcia's resplendent Casino first opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847. Beyond the decorative façade, completed in 1901, are an Arab-style vestibule and a patio. Penetrate as far as the magnificent ballroom and pop around €1 in the slot to see the 320 lamps of its candelabra shimmer with light as Strauss' Radetsky March wafts from all corners. Closed for improvements when we last visited, it should again be open.
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Museo Salzillo
Located in the baroque chapel of Ermita de Jesús and devoted to Murcian sculptor Francisco Salzillo (1707–83). The highlights are his exquisite pasos (figures carried in Semana Santa processions) and carved-wood nativity figurines. To get here head west from Gran Via del Escultor Francsico Salzillo along Calle Santa Teresa.
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Figón de Alfaro
Popular with all ages and budgets, Figón de Alfaro offers a chaotic bar area or a more sedate interconnecting dining room. Choose from full meals, a range of juicy montaditos (minirolls) or innovative one-offs such as pastel de berejena con salsa de calabacín (aubergine pie with a courgette sauce).
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Museo de la Ciudad
Housed in the villa of a prominent Murcia family of the 16th century, the City Museum diligently records the history of the city and region, with a particular emphasis on the region's art, crafts and ethnography. To the rear of the building is an orchard dating back to Muslim times, watered by the Caravija aqueduct.
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Museo de Bellas Artes
An inviting, light gallery devoted to Spanish artists. The 2nd-floor Siglo de Oro gallery includes canvases by Murillo, Zurbarán and by ‘Lo Spagnoletto’, José (Jusepe) de Ribera. For a break from all that religious piety, don’t miss the superbly kitsch dazzle of glamorous señoritas on the 3rd floor.
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Las Cadenas
Has an elegant dress-for-dinner feel and traditional menu. Reservations recommended.
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Museo de Santa Clara
Museo de Santa Clara is a recently restored Muslim palace. It has an exquisite courtyard and an important collection of Islamic art within a closed-order convent with its own rich treasures, assembled over the centuries. Phone to reserve a 45-minute guided tour in English.
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La Gran Taberna
The walls here host an attractive clutter of old menus, posters, programs and framed lacework. Work your way through the magnificent menú tradicional (traditional set menu; €34), chalked up on the blackboard and constant for more than a decade.
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City Hall
Rafael Moneo's extension to Murcia city's 19th-century city hall has been the subject of hot debate. Looking something like an empty book-case, it either lets a much-needed breath of air into the heavily elaborate square or defaces it: you be the judge.
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Museo de la Ciencia y del Agua
Beside the river and one for the children. Although everything's in Spanish, this small hands-on science museum has plenty of buttons to press and knobs to twirl, plus fish tanks and a small planetarium.
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Morales
Your dish won't come smothered in subtle sauces, jus or coulis here. What you'll get at this traditional family-run restaurant is the freshest of fish and first-class quality meat, cooked with care.
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Restaurante Hispano
The warm and inviting bar area here has inventive raciones, such as baby broad beans sautéed with artichokes and onion. The smarter restaurant beyond serves more traditional dishes.
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Centro Para la Artesanía
For local handicrafts try Centro para la Artesanía, which is both an exhibition space and sales outlet, located just west of Plaza de la Fuensanta.
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Museo Hidráulico
Giant grindstones and delicate working models are the permanent features of Museo Hidráulico, a restored water mill that's also used for temporary exhibitions.
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La Cocina de Vives
For economical eating, you can't beat this bustling place with its huge range of dishes, all on display, to eat in or take away.
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El Sentío
To wind down later on, award yourself a nightcap at El Sentío, smaller and quieter than most of the alternatives.
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Che Che
An elbow-to-elbow drinking experience; you'll have an intimate experience whether you want to or not.
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Gospel
Pulls in the crowds at paseo time, and continues to buzz well into the night.
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