Museo de Muñecas

Near the cathedral, this fascinating niche shop-cum-museum is dedicated to old dolls, with more than 500 examples from over 50 countries, from Ashanti fertility dolls to Shirley Temple. At the top of the steep stairs, you buy a ticket and are ushered through the back to two rooms jammed with old dolls, made of anything from cardboard to porcelain.

In the first room, countless versions of a popular Spanish doll, Mariquita Pérez, which first appeared in 1938 in San Sebastián, steal the show. Many of the dolls in the second room date to the 19th or early 20th centuries and the aim is to show you how dolls have evolved down through the decades. Cardboard Spanish dolls from the 1940s, for example, show how tough times were after the Civil War. Or what about the utterly un-PC gollywogs? And what are the tiny dolls with the huge bare breasts all about? The museum will appeal as much to collectors as to children.