Other sights in Madrid
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Plaza de la Cebada
Just west of La Latina metro station, the busy and bar-strewn corner of Madrid marked by the ill-defined ‘Barley Square’ is important to understanding what medieval Madrid was like, although it requires a little imagination. In the wake of the Christian conquest the square was, for a time, the site of a Muslim cemetery, and the nearby Plaza de la Puerta de Moros (Moors’ Gate) underscores that this area was long home to the city’s Muslim population. The square later became a popular spot for public executions – until well into the 19th century, the condemned would be paraded along Calle de Toledo, before turning into the square and mounting the gallows. The Teatr…
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Plaza de Lavapiés
The triangular Plaza de Lavapiés is one of the few open spaces in Lavapiés and it’s a magnet for all that’s good (a thriving cultural life) and bad (drugs and a high police presence) about the barrio. The Teatro Valle-Inclán, on the southern edge of the plaza, is a stunning contemporary addition to the eclectic Lavapiés streetscape. To find out what makes this barrio tick, consider dropping in to the Asociación de Vecinos La Corrala, just up the hill from the plaza, where staff are happy to highlight all that’s good about Lavapiés without dismissing its problems.
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Gran Vía
One of Madrid’s signature boulevards, Gran Vía was bulldozed through central Madrid in 1911 in a muscular, if ultimately successful example of town planning. Dominating the skyline is the 1920s-era Telefónica building, while the boulevard’s southeastern end boasts the most spectacular façades, none more so than the stunning, French-designed Edificio Metrópolis (1905).
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Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas
The Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas (often known simply as Las Ventas) is not the most beautiful bullring in the world – that honour probably goes to Ronda in Andalucía – but it is the most important. A classic example of the neo- mudéjar style, it was opened in 1931 and hosted its first corrida (bullfight) three years later. Like all bullrings, the circle of sand enclosed by four storeys, which can seat up to 25, 000 spectators, evokes more a sense of a theatre than a sports stadium; it also hosts concerts; see p210. To be carried high on the shoulders of aficionados out through the grand and decidedly Moorish Puerta de Madrid is the ultimate dream of any tore…
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Valle de Los Caídos
This extraordinary basilica and stone monument is built into the side of a mountain 15km north of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Conceived in the grandiose imagination of the dictator Francisco Franco, it served as a memorial of the those who died during the Spanish Civil War (1936–39), though in reality it has always glorified Franco’s side and was constructed by Franco’s prisoners of war, many of whom died in the process. It has long been a pilgrimage site for the small reactionary rump of Franco supporters, who come here especially on November 20 – the anniversary of Franco’s death – to reminisce about Franco’s rule, complete with stiff-armed fascist salutes. Spain’s Soci…
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Plaza de Ramales
This pleasant little triangle of open space is not without historical intrigue. Joseph Bonaparte ordered the destruction of the Iglesia de San Juanito to open up a pocket of fresh air in the then-crowded streets. It is believed Velázquez was buried in the church; excavations in 2000 revealed the crypt of the former church and the remains of various people buried in it centuries ago, but Velázquez was nowhere to be found. On the west side of the plaza is the Escuela Superior de Música Reina Sofía (www.fundacionalbeniz.com), a musical conservatory which hosts occasional concerts.
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Museo de los Orígenes
The Museo de los Orígenes occupies the spot where San Isidro Labrador (the patron saint of Madrid) is said to have ended his days in 1172. Displays range from archaeological finds from the Roman period to maps, scale models, paintings and photos of Madrid down through the ages. A particular highlight is the large model based on Pedro Teixeira’s famous 1656 map of Madrid. Major renovations are planned, so expect some disruptions.
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Palacio Real de El Pardo
Built in the 15th century and remodelled in the 17th, this opulent palace was Franco's favourite residence. It's surrounded by lush gardens (they close one hour later than the palace) and on Sunday fills with madrileño families looking for a bit of fresh air and a hearty lunch. Of the art on display inside, the tapestries stand out, particularly those based on cartoons by Goya.
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Calle de Cervantes 2
Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (1547–1616), the author of Don Quijote, spent much of his adult life in Madrid and lived and died at Calle de Cervantes 2; a plaque (dating from 1834) sits above the door. Sadly, the original building was torn down in the early 19th century. When Cervantes died his body was interred around the corner at the Convento de las Trinitarias.
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Convento de las Trinitarias
When Cervantes died his body was interred at the Convento de las Trinitarias, which is marked by a plaque. Still home to cloistered nuns, the convent is closed to the public, which saves the authorities’ embarrassment: no one really knows where in the convent the bones of Cervantes lie. A commemorative Mass is held for him here every year on the anniversary of his death, 23 April.
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Ermita de San Isidro
The pleasing ruins of this small country chapel is one of the few, albeit modest, examples of extant Romanesque architecture in Madrid. Parts of the wall, a side entrance and part of the apse were restored in 1999 and are all that remain of the 13th-century building. When it was built Madrid was a little village more than 2km away.
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El Retiro
A Sunday walk in El Retiro is as much a Madrid tradition as tapas and terrace cafes. Littered with marble monuments, landscaped lawns, the occasional elegant building and abundant greenery, it's quiet and contemplative during the week, but comes alive on weekends.
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Jardines de Sabatini
The formal French-style Jardines de Sabatini are to the north of the Palacio Real, a palace with lush gardens.
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Zoo Aquarium de Madrid
Inside the Casa de Campo is the Zoo Aquarium de Madrid, home to around 3000 animals. Opening hours vary.
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Palacio Real de el Pardo
Built in the 15th century and remodelled in the 17th, this opulent palace was Franco’s favourite residence. It’s surrounded by lush gardens (which close one hour later than the palace) and on Sunday fills with madrileño families looking for a bit of fresh air and a hearty lunch. Of the art on display inside, the tapestries stand out, particularly those based on cartoons by Goya.
reviewed
