Lonely Planet review
Home to Picasso’s Guernica, arguably Spain’s single most famous artwork, and a host of other important Spanish artworks, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is Madrid’s premier collection of contemporary art. In addition to plenty of paintings by Picasso, other major drawcards are works by Salvador Dalí (1904-89) and Joan Miró (1893-1983).
The collection principally spans the 20th century up to the 1980s (for more recent works, visit the Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo ). The occasional non-Spaniard artist makes an appearance (including Francis Bacon’s 1966 Lying Figure ), but most of the collection is strictly peninsular.
The permanent collection is displayed on the 2nd and 4th floors of the main wing of the museum, the Edificio Sabatini. Guernica’s location never changes – you’ll find it in room 206 on the 2nd floor. Beyond that, the location of specific paintings can be a little confusing. After a period of grouping together works by the same artist, the museum has moved towards a more theme-based approach, which ensures that you may find works by Picasso or Miró, for example, spread across the two floors. A dynamic program of temporary exhibitions also ensures that the location of numerous paintings changes on a semi-regular basis. The only solution if you’re looking for something specific is to pick up the latest copy of the Planos de Museo (Museum Floorplans) from the information desk just inside the main entrance; it lists the rooms in which each artist appears.
Claimed by some to be the single-most important artwork of the 20th century, Pablo Picasso’s Guernica measures 3.5m by 7.8m and is an icon of the cubist style for which Picasso became famous. You could easily spend hours studying the painting, but take the time to both examine the detail of its various constituent elements and step back to get an overview of this extraordinary canvas.
To deepen your understanding of Guernica , don’t neglect the sketches that Picasso painted as he prepared to execute his masterpiece. They’re in the rooms surrounding Room 206. They offer an intriguing insight into the development of this seminal work.
Guernica was Picasso’s response to the bombing of Gernika (Guernica) in the Basque Country by Hitler’s Legión Condor, at the request of Franco, on 26 April 1937. At least 200 died in the attack and much of the town was destroyed. The 3.5m by 7.8m painting subsequently migrated to the USA and only returned to Spain in 1981, in keeping with Picasso’s wish that the painting return to Spanish shores (first to Picasso’s preferred choice, the Museo del Prado, then to its current home) once democracy had been restored.
In addition to Picasso’s Guernica , which is worth the admission fee on its own, don’t neglect the artist’s preparatory sketches in the rooms surrounding room 206; they offer an intriguing insight into the development of this seminal work. If Picasso’s cubist style has captured your imagination, the work of the Madrid-born Juan Gris (1887-1927) or Georges Braque (1882-1963) may appeal.
The work of Joan Miró (1893-1983) is defined by often delightfully bright primary colours, but watch out also for a handful of his equally odd sculptures. Since his paintings became a symbol of the Barcelona Olympics in 1992, his work has begun to receive the international acclaim it so richly deserves and the museum is a fine place to get a representative sample of his innovative work.
The Reina Sofía is also home to 20 or so canvases by Salvador Dalí, of which the most famous is perhaps the surrealist extravaganza that is El Gran Masturbador (1929). Among his other works is a strange bust of a certain Joelle done by Dalí and his friend Man Ray (1890-1976). Another well-known surrealist painter, Max Ernst (1891–1976), is also worth tracking down.
If you can tear yourself away from the big names, the Reina Sofía offers a terrific opportunity to learn more about sometimes lesser-known 20th-century Spanish artists. Among these are Miquel Barceló (b 1957); madrileño artist José Gutiérrez Solana (1886-1945); the renowned Basque painter Ignazio Zuloaga (1870-1945); Benjamin Palencia (1894-1980), whose paintings capture the turbulence of Spain in the 1930s; Barcelona painter Antoni Tàpies (1923-2012); the pop art of Eduardo Arroyo (b 1937); and abstract painters such as Eusebio Sempere (1923-85) and members of the Equipo 57 group (founded in 1957 by a group of Spanish artists in exile in Paris), such as Pablo Palazuelo (1916-2007). Better-known as a poet and playwright, Federico García Lorca (1898-1936) is represented by a number of his sketches.
Of the sculptors, watch in particular for Pablo Gargallo (1881-1934), whose work in bronze includes a bust of Picasso, and the renowned Basque sculptors Jorge Oteiza (1908-2003) and Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002).