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11 March 2004 Memorial
This moving monument to the victims of the worst terrorist attack on European soil is partially visible from the street, but the glass tower is best viewed from below. A glass panel shows the names of those killed while the airy glass-and-perspex tower is inscribed with the messages of condolence left by well-wishers in a number of languages in the immediate aftermath of the attack. It's simple but powerful. You may have to queue to enter.
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Plaza Mayor
Madrid's imperial heart beats loudest at Plaza Mayor, the town square designed in 1619 by Juan Gómez de Mora. Popular as a site for autos-da-fe (the ritual condemnation of heretics, often followed by burning at the stake), it is now given over to those who fancy an alfresco drink or snack.
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