La Tasquita de Enfrente

To succeed on the international stage, Spain’s celebrity chefs have to take experimentation to new levels, but to succeed at home they usually have to maintain a greater fidelity to traditional bases before heading off in new directions. And therein lies the success – it’s difficult to overstate how popular this place is among people-in-the-know in Madrid’s food scene – of chef Juanjo López. His seasonal menu never ceases to surprise (he was preparing cream of pea soup with caviar and hamburgers with foie gras and truffles when we were there) but also combines simple Spanish staples such as squid with broad beans to stunning effect. His menu degustación (€48) and menú de Juanjo (€65) would be our choice if this is your first time. Reservations are essential.