Casa Revuelta puts out some of Madrid’s finest tapas of bacalao (cod) bar none. While aficionados of Casa Labra may disagree, the fact that the octogenarian owner, Señor Revuelta, painstakingly extracts every fish bone in the morning and serves as a waiter in the afternoon wins the argument for us. Early on a Sunday afternoon, as the Rastro crowd gathers here, it’s filled to the rafters, although locals who’ve been coming here for decades always manage to find room. It’s also famous for its callos (tripe), torreznos (bacon bits) and albóndigas (meatballs).