Almendro 13 is a charming, wildly popular taberna (tavern) where you come for traditional Spanish tapas with an emphasis on quality rather than frilly elaborations. Cured meats, cheeses, omelettes and many variations on these themes dominate the menu; it serves both raciones and half-sized plates – a full racion of the famously good huevos rotos (literally, ‘broken eggs’) served with jamón (ham) and thin potato slices is a meal in itself. The only problem is that the wait for a table (low, with wooden stools) requires the patience of a saint, so order a fine wine or manzanilla (dry sherry) and soak up the buzz.