If you want to see madrileños enjoying their favourite local food, this is one of the best places to do so. The clamour of conversation bounces off the tiled walls of the cramped dining area adorned with bullfighting memorabilia. The speciality is as much cocido as you can eat (€19). The degustación de cocido (taste of cocido; €5) at the bar is a great way to try Madrid’s favourite dish.