An institution among locals and tourists alike, this buzzing bar doles out hearty portions of food (try a hot or cold tabla, or platter; a half order, €6, is ample for two) and dispenses drinks from big casks mounted in the walls. The best choice is a lively, herbaceous vermut (vermouth) topped with soda. Don’t confuse this place with Antigua Bodega Castañeda around the corner, which is not as enticing.