Things to do in Trujillo
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Palacio de la Conquista
On the plaza's south side, carved images of Pizarro and his lover Inés Yupanqui (sister of the Inca emperor Atahualpa) decorate the corner of the 16th-century Palacio de la Conquista. To the right is their daughter Francisca Pizarro Yupanqui with her husband (and uncle), Hernando Pizarro. The mansion was built in the 1560s for Hernando and Francisca after Hernando – the only Pizarro brother not to die a bloody death in Peru – emerged from 20 years in jail for murder. Higher up, a bas relief carving shows the Pizarro family shield (two bears and a pine tree), the walls of Cuzco (in present-day Peru), Pizarro's ships and a group of Indian chiefs.
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Restaurante La Troya
Mention Trujillo to anyone in Spain and chances are that they'll have heard of La Troya – the restaurant and its founder, the late Concha Álvarez, are extremeño institutions. You will be directed to one of several dining areas and there, without warning, you will be presented with plates of tortilla, chorizo, cheese and salad, followed by a three-course menú (with truly gargantuan portions) and including wine and water. Food is simple home cooking, but it's all about quantity and queues stretch out the door on weekends. If it all sounds a bit too girth expanding, opt for one of the tapas at the bar (€2) instead.
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Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor
The 13th-century Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor has a mainly Gothic nave and a Romanesque tower that you can ascend (all 106 steps) for fabulous views. It also has tombs of leading Trujillo families of the Middle Ages, including that of Diego García de Paredes (1466–1530), a Trujillo warrior of legendary strength who, according to Cervantes, could stop a mill wheel with one finger. The church's magnificent altarpiece includes 25 brilliantly coloured 15th-century paintings in the Flemish style.
reviewed
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Puerta del Triunfo
The 900m of walls circling the upper town date from Muslim times. Here, the newly settled noble families built their mansions and churches after the Reconquista. The western end is marked by the Puerta del Triunfo, through which it is said conquering Christian troops marched in 1232, when they wrested the city from the Muslims. About 100m inside is the El Alberca, with stairs leading down to a naturally occurring pool, thought to date from Roman times and these days looking decidedly murky.
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E
Palacio de los Duques de San Carlos
Across the street rears the solid presence of the 16th-century Palacio de los Duques de San Carlos, nowadays a convent for the Jerónimo order, but open for visits and for selling its homemade biscuits. Its treasures are the sober classical patio and a grand granite staircase crowned with a painting of the family crest: a two-headed eagle. The distinctive brick chimneys were built in late Mudéjar and Gothic style.
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Trujillo's castle
At the top of the hill, Trujillo's castle, of 10th-century Muslim origin (evident by the horseshoe-arch gateway just inside the main entrance) and later strengthened by the Christians, is impressive, although bare, but for a lone fig tree. Patrol the battlements for magnificent 360-degree sweeping views. One of the towers contains the hermitage of Our Lady of the Victory, the patron saint of Trujillo.
reviewed
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Castle
At the top of the hill, Trujillo’s castle of 10th-century Muslim origin (evident by the horseshoe-arch gateway just inside the main entrance) and later strengthened by the Christians, is impressive, although bare but for a lone fig tree. Patrol the battlements for magnificent 360-degree sweeping views. One of the towers contains the hermitage of Our Lady of the Victory, the patron saint of Trujillo.
reviewed
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H
Palacio Juan Pizarro de Orellana
Through a twisting alley above the Palacio de la Conquista is the Palacio Juan Pizarro de Orellana, converted from miniature fortress to Renaissance mansion by one of the Pizarro cousin conquistadors. Its patio is decorated with the coats of arms of the two most famous local families: the Pizarros and the Orellanas (Francisco Orellana was the first European to explore reaches of the Amazon).
reviewed
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Museo de Queso y el Vino
Cheese-and-wine aficionados may enjoy this museum where you can have a taster of both and take a look at the informative display (in Spanish) of wine and cheese in Spain. Set in this fine former convent, the 4m 3-D picture of a jolly Don Quijote is the stunning work of local artist Francisco Blanco. It's just a short walk down the hill south of Plaza Mayor.
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Iglesia de Santiago
Coming up from Plaza Mayor, you pass through the Puerta de Santiago. To its right is the deconsecrated Iglesia de Santiago, founded in the 13th century by the Knights of Santiago (look for their scallop-shell emblem). The ground level has displays of mainly Bronze Age and Roman artefacts found locally and you can climb the bell tower.
reviewed
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Iglesia de San Martín
Overlooking the Plaza Mayor from the northeast corner is the 16th-century Iglesia de San Martín, with delicate Gothic ceiling tracing, stunning stained-glass windows and a grand organ (climb up to the choir loft for the best view). It's one of the few churches in Trujillo still functioning as a place of worship.
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Pizarro statue
A large equestrian Pizarro statue by American Charles Rumsey looks down over Plaza Mayor. Apparently Rumsey originally sculpted it as a statue of Hernán Cortés to present to Mexico, but Mexico, which takes a dim view of Cortés, declined it, so it was given to Trujillo as Pizarro instead.
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Mesón Alberca
A pretty ivy-clad terrace or dark-timber tables laid with gingham tablecloths create a choice of warm atmospheres for sampling classic extremeño cooking. The specialities here are oven roasts and solomillo ibérico con Torta del Casar (pork sirloin with creamy sheep’s-milk cheese).
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Corral del Rey
This classic restaurant has four intimate dining rooms. Settle for the menú del día (€24) or choose from a tempting range of grills, roasts and fish dishes; the latter speciality being bacalao Corral del Rey (grilled cod with a courgette and roasted garlic sauce).
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Restaurante Pizarro
Next door to La Troya, Restaurante Pizarro is much quieter and has arguably better food (they've been winning gastronomic awards since 1985). The dining room is pleasantly unpretentious, while the menu includes dishes like chicken stuffed with truffles, and frito de cordero (lamb stew).
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Fiestas de Trujillo
The town's annual Fiestas de Trujillo, with music, theatre and plenty of partying, are spread over a few days around the first Saturday in September.
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Feria del Queso
The last weekend in April is a pungent period as cheese makers from all over Spain and elsewhere display their best at Trujillo's Feria del Queso.
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Posada Restaurante Dos Orillas
Just as the hotel is a gem, so the restaurant is a place of quiet, refined eating, whether alfresco on the patio or in the dining room, with its soft-hued fabrics. Fresh tastes are what it's all about here, with dishes like courgettes stuffed with mushrooms and prawns.
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Pizarro
A large equestrian Pizarro statue by American Charles Rumsey looks down over Plaza Mayor. Apparently Rumsey originally sculpted it as a statue of Hernán Cortés to present to Mexico, but Mexico, which takes a dim view of Cortés, declined it, so it was given to Trujillo as Pizarro instead.
reviewed
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R
Mesón Alberca
A pretty ivy-clad terrace or dark-timber tables laid with gingham tablecloths create a choice of warm atmospheres for sampling classic extremeño cooking. The specialities here are oven roasts and solomillo ibérico con Torta del Casar (pork sirloin with creamy sheep's-milk cheese).
reviewed
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City Walls
The 900m of walls circling the upper town date from Muslim times and it was here the newly settled noble families built their mansions and churches after the Reconquista. The western end is marked by the Puerta del Triunfo (Gate of Triumph), through which it is said conquering Christian troops marched in 1232, when they wrested the city from the Muslims.
reviewed
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S
Castle
At the top of the hill, Trujillo's castle of 10th-century Muslim origin (evident by the horseshoe-arch gateway just inside the main entrance) and later strengthened by the Christians, is impressive, although bare but for a lone fig tree. Patrol the battlements for magnificent 360-degree sweeping views. One of the towers contains the hermitage of Our Lady of the Victory, the patron saint of Trujillo.
reviewed
