Things to do in Mérida
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Alcazaba
This large Muslim fort was built in AD 835 on a site already occupied by the Romans and Visigoths. Down below, its aljibe (cistern) incorporates marble and stone slabs with Visigothic decoration that were recycled by the Muslims, while the ramparts look out over the Guadiana and down into the Alcazaba's gardens. The 15th-century monastery in its northeast corner now serves as the Junta de Extremadura's presidential offices.
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Casa Nano
Tucked behind Plaza de España, the simpático staff here serve dishes like cordero a la ciruela (lamb with plums; €18) and patatas al rebujón (wedges of thick potato omelette). We also recommend the three-course menú extremeño (€23). Don your shades and brave the bright lights of the dining room or head outside for a table on the quiet pedestrian street.
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Teatro Romano
The Teatro Romano, built around 15 BC to seat 6000 spectators and set in lovely gardens, has a dramatic and well-preserved two-tier backdrop of Corinthian stone columns; the stage’s facade (scaenae frons) was inaugurated in AD 105. The only Roman building in Mérida to be used for its original purpose, the theatre hosts performances during the Festival del Teatro Clásico in summer.
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Convivium
Head straight for the pretty patio with tables set under a large lemon tree at this informal place where the speciality is tortillinas (mini-omelettes with fillings including cod, salami, spinach, aubergine and prawns). The tortillina, gazpacho and drink for €2.50 has to be Mérida's best deal. The raciones (€9 to €14) are more traditional.
reviewed
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Circo Romano
Northeast of the amphitheatre are the remains of the 1st-century Circo Romano, the only surviving hippodrome of its kind in Spain, which could accommodate 30,000 spectators. Inside you can see brief footage in Spanish about Diocles, a champion auriga (chariot racer) who served his apprenticeship in Mérida before going on to the big league in Rome.
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Casa Benito
Squeeze onto a tiny stool in the wood-panelled dining room, prop up the bar or relax on the sunny terrace for tapas at this bullfighting enthusiasts' hang-out, its walls plastered with photos, posters and memorabilia from the ring. The adjacent asador specialises in roasts including rabo de toro (bull's tail; €13.75) – no surprises there.
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Circo RomanoR
Remains of the 1st-century Circo Romano, the only surviving hippodrome of its kind in Spain, which could accommodate 30,000 spectators. Inside you can see brief footage in Spanish about Diocles, a champion auriga (chariot racer) who served his apprenticeship in Mérida before going on to the big league in Rome.
reviewed
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Tabula Calda
This inviting space, with tile work and abundant greenery, serves up well-priced meals (including set menus from €12 to €24.50) that cover most Spanish staples. It effortlessly combines traditional home cooking, thoughtful presentation and subtle innovations.
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Casa del Mitreo
The Casa del Mitreo is a 2nd-century Roman house with several intricate mosaics (especially the partial but beautiful remains of the mosaico cosmológico, with its allegories and bright colours) and a well-preserved fresco.
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Museo Nacional de Arte Romano
On no account miss this fabulous museum, which has a superb collection of statues, mosaics, frescoes, coins and other Roman artefacts. Designed by the architect Rafael Moneo, the soaring brick structure makes a remarkable home for the collection.
reviewed
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Restaurante Nicolás
Long admired as a local favourite, this is one of the classier city dining options. Its relaxing ground-floor bar serves raciones while upstairs the food is decidedly more exciting than the restaurant's rather drab decor.
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Templo de Diana
The Templo de Diana stood in the municipal forum, where the city government was based. Parts were incorporated into a 16th-century mansion, built within it, and it now stands surrounded by modern Mérida along a quiet street. The restored Pórtico del Foro, the municipal forum's portico, is just along the road.
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Centro de Interpretación Las VII Sillas
The Centro de Interpretación Las VII Sillas has the remains of a noble mansion and a sizeable hunk of Roman, Visigothic and Arab wall. A 13-minute DVD in Spanish takes you on a virtual tour of the Roman city.
reviewed
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Puente Romano
Don't miss the extraordinarily powerful spectacle over the Río Guadiana of the Puente Romano, which, at 792m in length with 60 granite arches, is one of the longest bridges built by the Romans. There are good views from the altogether more modern Puente Lusitania, a sleek suspension bridge designed by the famed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava away to the northwest.
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Museo de Arte Visigodo
Many of the Visigothic objects unearthed in Mérida are exhibited in this museum, just off Plaza de España. It's a fascinating insight into a little-known period of Spanish history.
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La Tahona Nueva
There's a classy courtyard draped with bougainvillea at La Tahona, plus a cavernous bar area with a stage for regular live gigs ranging from flamenco to blues and jazz.
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La Tahona
There's a classy courtyard draped with bougainvillea at La Tahona, plus a cavernous bar area with a stage for regular live gigs ranging from flamenco to blues and jazz.
reviewed
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Acueducto de Los Milagros
Further west, the Acueducto de Los Milagros, highly favoured by nesting storks, once supplied the Roman city with water from the dam at Lago Proserpina, about 5km out of town.
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Raw Café-Club
A spirited and edgily grungy bar in an incongruous lavishly tiled and historic town house. It attracts the teens and early 20s gang with live gigs nightly.
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Arco de Trajano
The 15m-high Arco de Trajano over Calle de Trajano may have served as the entrance to the provincial forum, from where Lusitania province was governed.
reviewed
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Moorish quarter
This excavated Moorish quarter contains the remains of a cemetery, walls and houses dating from Roman to post-Islamic times.
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La Moett
Under the arches of the Ayuntamiento on the Plaza de España's northeastern side, La Moett is a classier option, with tables on the square.
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Maikel's
Maikel's is the place to move your booty in downtown Mérida. Look for the twinkling orange globe outside.
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Zona Arqueológica de Morería
This excavated Moorish quarter contains the remains of a cemetery, walls and houses dating from Roman to post-Islamic times.
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Pórtico del Foro
The restored Pórtico del Foro, the municipal forum's portico, is just along the road from the Templo de Diana.
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