Things to do in Salamanca
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El Grillo Azul
Vegetarian visitors to Salamanca have a treat that's rare in Castilian towns – a real-life vegetarian restaurant. It's a buzzy place with attractive blue-and-white decor and a creative menu that includes a plato degustación (€11.50): a veritable veggie feast for two with taster portions of dishes like grilled seitan or tofu, vegetable soufflé, wild mushrooms and inventive salads.
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Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor is the centrepiece of monumental Salamanca and the modern city's beating heart. Built between 1729 and 1755, Salamanca's exceptional grand square is widely considered Spain's most beautiful central plaza, particularly at night when illuminated to magical effect. Designed by Alberto Churriguera, it's a remarkably harmonious and controlled baroque display.
The medallions placed around the plaza bear the busts of famous figures (you'll even find a recently freshened-up bust of Franco in the northeastern corner), and bullfights were held here well into the 19th century; the last ceremonial corrida took place here in 1992. Its outdoor tables are a place to linger,…
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Catedral Nueva
The tower of the late Gothic Catedral Nueva lords over the centre of Salamanca, its compelling churrigueresco (ornate style of baroque) dome visible from almost every angle. It is, however, the magnificent Renaissance doorways, particularly the Puerta del Nacimiento on the western face, that stand out as one of several miracles worked in the city’s native sandstone. The Puerta de Ramos, facing Plaza Anaya, contains an encore to the ‘frog spotting’ challenge on the university facade. Look for the little astronaut and ice-cream cone chiselled into the portal by stonemasons during recent restorations.
Inside, the most notable features include the elaborate choir stalls…
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Catedral Vieja
The Catedral Vieja is adorned with an exquisite 15th-century altarpiece, with 53 panels depicting scenes from the lives of Christ and Mary, topped by a representation of the Final Judgment – it’s one of the most beautiful Renaissance altarpieces outside Italy. The cathedral was begun in 1120 and remains something of a hybrid: there are Gothic elements, while the unusual ribbed cupola, the Torre del Gallo, reflects a Byzantine influence. The cloister was largely ruined in the 1755 earthquake, but the Capilla de Anaya houses an extravagant alabaster sepulchre and one of Europe’s oldest organs, a Mudéjar work of art dating from the 16th century. The entrance is inside the Ca…
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Convento de San Esteban
Rising above the southeastern corner of the old city, the Convento de San Esteban’s church has an extraordinary altarlike facade with the stoning of San Esteban (St Stephen) as its central motif. Inside is a well-presented museum dedicated to the Dominicans and their missionary work in the Americas. The splendid Gothic-Renaissance cloister has strategically placed mirrors that enable you to appreciate fully the fine ceiling.
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Puerta de la Torre
For fine views over Salamanca, head to the tower at the southwestern corner of the Catedral Nueva's facade. From here, stairs lead up through the tower, past labyrinthine but well-presented exhibitions of cathedral memorabilia, then along the interior balconies of the sanctuaries of the Catedral Nueva and Catedral Vieja and out onto the exterior balconies. There's another entrance inside the Catedral Vieja.
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El Pecado
A trendy place that regularly attracts Spanish celebrities (eg Pedro Almodóvar and Ferran Adrià), El Pecado (‘The Sin’) has an intimate dining room and a quirky, creative menu. The hallmarks are fresh tastes, intriguing combinations and dishes that regularly change according to what is fresh in the market that day. Reservations recommended.
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Universidad Civil
The visual feast of the entrance facade to Salamanca’s university is a tapestry in sandstone, bursting with images of mythical heroes, religious scenes and coats of arms. It’s dominated in the centre by busts of Fernando and Isabel. It’s the elusive frog that draws the crowds, but don’t let that distract you from the overall magnificence.
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Convento de las Úrsulas
The Convento de las Úrsulas, a late-Gothic nunnery, was founded by Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca in 1512 and is now home to his magnificent marble tomb, sculpted by Diego de Siloé. It's closed on the last Sunday of each month. There's also a Spanish twist: the nuns rent out part of the space to a nightclub called Camelot.
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Casa de Las Conchas
One of the city’s most endearing buildings, named after the scallop shells clinging to its facade. Its original owner, Dr Rodrigo Maldonado de Talavera, was a doctor at the court of Isabel and a member of the Order of Santiago, whose symbol is the shell. It now houses the public library, entered via a charming bi-level courtyard.
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University of Salamanca
Salamanca is one of the most popular places in Spain to study Spanish and the University of Salamanca is the most respected language school. Courses range from a three-hour daily course spread over two weeks (€365) to a 10-week course of five hours daily (€1650). Accommodation can also be arranged.
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Restaurante La Luna
This place has an upbeat young vibe with a background of cool jazz and interesting dishes that deviate from the grilled meats’ norm, like salmon prepared a variety of ways and stuffed vegetables, including aubergines, topped with cheese. The downstairs is crowded and intimate; the upstairs bright and modern.
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Camelot
One of our favourites, this lively disco is actually part of the Convento de las Úrsulas. The décor is an incongruous sandstone-industrial fusion that works terrifically well but soon gets forgotten once the DJs get started. To get in, we wouldn't turn up in anything less than smart casual.
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Mesón Las Conchas
Enjoy a choice of outdoor tables (in summer), an atmospheric bar or the upstairs, wood-beamed dining area. The bar caters mainly to locals who know their embutidos (cured meats). For sit-down meals, there’s a good mix of roasts, platos combinados and raciones.
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Mesón Cervantes
This is a great place where you can eat at the outdoor tables on the plaza, but the dark wooden beams and atmospheric buzz of the Spanish crowd on the 1st floor should be experienced at least once. The food’s a mix of platos combinados, salads and raciones.
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Casa Paca
Established in 1928 and still going strong, Casa Paca is rumoured to be where the king dines when in town. Both the restaurant and its most famous patron are known for their love of hearty dishes like cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig). Reservations essential.
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Litre Bars
The collection of so-called 'litre bars' on Plaza de San Juan de Bautista are fun night-time hang-outs with a young crowd. Here you can guzzle a 1L cerveza (beer) for around €3.50 or a cubalibre (rum and coke with lemon juice) for around €5.
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Palacio de Monterrey
Off the southwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, take Calle del Prior which leads to the Palacio de Monterrey, a 16th-century holiday home of the Duques de Alba and a seminal piece of Spanish Renaissance architecture; it's not open to the public but the façade is superb.
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Convento de Santa Clara
This much-modified convent started life as a Romanesque structure and now houses a small museum. You can admire the beautiful frescoes and climb up some stairs to inspect at close quarters the 14th- and 15th-century artesonado (wooden Mudéjar ceiling).
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Chido’s Bar
A popular place for American students seeking their Tex Mex fix with tacos, nachos and guacamole, accompanied by cocktails or Corona beer. Head downstairs to the great barrel-vault space with its intriguing ancient tunnel entrance that leads to Plaza Mayor.
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Zazu Bistro
Expect smooth sounds on the stereo, and Italian-inspired dishes including exceedingly moreish risottos (with wild mushrooms and similar). There are some culinary surprises as well, like that delectable British standard, sticky toffee pudding, for dessert.
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Vinodiario
Away from the crowds of the old-city centre, this delightfully chilled wine bar is staffed by knowledgeable bar staff and loved by locals who, in summer, fill the outdoor tables for early evening drinks. The tapas are innovative and delicious.
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Grana & Oro
A cool, clean-lined place, Grana & Oro specialises in grills, with some fine combinations of tastes - mar y tierra (sea and land) combines inland Spain's best cured ham with the finest fish from Cantabria.
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Museo de Salamanca
Housed in the former residence of Queen Isabel's doctor, this museum is more interesting for the picture of tranquil Salamanca residential life in its attractive patios than for the paintings and sculptures within.
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Convento y Museo de Las Úrsulas
A late-Gothic nunnery founded by Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca in 1512. The religious museum is fairly modest, but do take a look at the magnificent marble tomb within the church, sculpted by Diego de Siloé.
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