Sights in Salamanca
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Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor is the centrepiece of monumental Salamanca and the modern city's beating heart. Built between 1729 and 1755, Salamanca's exceptional grand square is widely considered Spain's most beautiful central plaza, particularly at night when illuminated to magical effect. Designed by Alberto Churriguera, it's a remarkably harmonious and controlled baroque display.
The medallions placed around the plaza bear the busts of famous figures (you'll even find a recently freshened-up bust of Franco in the northeastern corner), and bullfights were held here well into the 19th century; the last ceremonial corrida took place here in 1992. Its outdoor tables are a place to linger,…
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Catedral Nueva
The tower of the late Gothic Catedral Nueva lords over the centre of Salamanca, its compelling churrigueresco (ornate style of baroque) dome visible from almost every angle. It is, however, the magnificent Renaissance doorways, particularly the Puerta del Nacimiento on the western face, that stand out as one of several miracles worked in the city’s native sandstone. The Puerta de Ramos, facing Plaza Anaya, contains an encore to the ‘frog spotting’ challenge on the university facade. Look for the little astronaut and ice-cream cone chiselled into the portal by stonemasons during recent restorations.
Inside, the most notable features include the elaborate choir stalls…
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Catedral Vieja
The Catedral Vieja is adorned with an exquisite 15th-century altarpiece, with 53 panels depicting scenes from the lives of Christ and Mary, topped by a representation of the Final Judgment – it’s one of the most beautiful Renaissance altarpieces outside Italy. The cathedral was begun in 1120 and remains something of a hybrid: there are Gothic elements, while the unusual ribbed cupola, the Torre del Gallo, reflects a Byzantine influence. The cloister was largely ruined in the 1755 earthquake, but the Capilla de Anaya houses an extravagant alabaster sepulchre and one of Europe’s oldest organs, a Mudéjar work of art dating from the 16th century. The entrance is inside the Ca…
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Convento de San Esteban
Rising above the southeastern corner of the old city, the Convento de San Esteban’s church has an extraordinary altarlike facade with the stoning of San Esteban (St Stephen) as its central motif. Inside is a well-presented museum dedicated to the Dominicans and their missionary work in the Americas. The splendid Gothic-Renaissance cloister has strategically placed mirrors that enable you to appreciate fully the fine ceiling.
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Puerta de la Torre
For fine views over Salamanca, head to the tower at the southwestern corner of the Catedral Nueva’s facade. From here, stairs lead up through the tower, past labyrinthine but well-presented exhibitions of cathedral memorabilia, then along the interior balconies of the sanctuaries of the Catedral Nueva and Catedral Vieja and out onto the exterior balconies. There’s another entrance inside the Catedral Vieja.
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Universidad Civil
The visual feast of the entrance facade to Salamanca’s university is a tapestry in sandstone, bursting with images of mythical heroes, religious scenes and coats of arms. It’s dominated in the centre by busts of Fernando and Isabel. It’s the elusive frog that draws the crowds, but don’t let that distract you from the overall magnificence.
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Convento de las Úrsulas
The Convento de las Úrsulas, a late-Gothic nunnery, was founded by Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca in 1512 and is now home to his magnificent marble tomb, sculpted by Diego de Siloé. It's closed on the last Sunday of each month. There's also a Spanish twist: the nuns rent out part of the space to a nightclub called Camelot.
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Casa de Las Conchas
One of the city’s most endearing buildings, named after the scallop shells clinging to its facade. Its original owner, Dr Rodrigo Maldonado de Talavera, was a doctor at the court of Isabel and a member of the Order of Santiago, whose symbol is the shell. It now houses the public library, entered via a charming bi-level courtyard.
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Palacio de Monterrey
Off the southwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, take Calle del Prior which leads to the Palacio de Monterrey, a 16th-century holiday home of the Duques de Alba and a seminal piece of Spanish Renaissance architecture; it's not open to the public but the façade is superb.
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Convento de Santa Clara
This much-modified convent started life as a Romanesque structure and now houses a small museum. You can admire the beautiful frescoes and climb up some stairs to inspect at close quarters the 14th- and 15th-century artesonado (wooden Mudéjar ceiling).
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Museo de Salamanca
Housed in the former residence of Queen Isabel’s doctor, this museum is more interesting for the picture of tranquil Salamanca residential life in its attractive patios than for the paintings and sculptures within.
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Convento y Museo de Las Úrsulas
A late-Gothic nunnery founded by Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca in 1512. The religious museum is fairly modest, but do take a look at the magnificent marble tomb within the church, sculpted by Diego de Siloé.
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Museo de la Universidad
The main attraction here is the beautiful pale-blue ceiling fresco of the zodiac; give yourself a few minutes to adjust to the light before gazing aloft.
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Convento de las Dueñas
This Dominican convent is home to the city’s most beautiful cloister, with some decidedly ghoulish carvings on the capitals.
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Colegio del Arzobispo Fonseca
The 16th-century Colegio has a plateresque facade, a lovely courtyard and a sophisticated restaurant (meals €40).
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Torre del Clavero
A 15th-century octagonal fortress with an unusual square base and smaller cylindrical towers.
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Real Clericía de San Marcos
A colossal baroque church where obligatory guided tours run every 45 minutes.
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Museo de Art Nouveau y Art Decó
Gallery devoted to both styles in a Modernista (Catalan art nouveau) house.
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