Things to do in Burgos
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Coffin of El Cid
High on the northwestern wall of the Capilla de Corpus Cristi, in the the catedral, is the coffin of El Cid.
Few names resonate through Spanish history quite like El Cid, the 11th-century soldier of fortune and adventurer whose story tells in microcosm the tumultuous years when Spain was divided into Muslim and Christian zones. That El Cid has become a romantic, idealised figure of history known for his unswerving loyalty and superhuman strength owes much to the way his exploits captured the popular imagination as expressed in an anonymous 12th-century epic poem and the 1961 film starring Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren. Reality, though, presents a very different picture…
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Catedral
The Unesco World Heritage–listed cathedral is a masterpiece that’s probably worth the trip to Burgos on its own. It had humble origins as a modest Romanesque church, but work began on a grander scale in 1221. Remarkably, within 40 years most of the French Gothic structure that you see today had been completed. The twin towers, which went up later in the 15th century, each represent 84m of richly decorated Gothic fantasy and they’re surrounded by a sea of similarly intricate spires. Probably the most impressive of the portals is the Puerta del Sarmental, the main entrance for visitors, although the honour could also go to the Puerta de la Coronería, on the northwestern sid…
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Castillo de Burgos
Crowning the leafy hilltop Parque de Castillo are the massive fortifications of the rebuilt Castillo de Burgos. Dating from the 9th century, the castle has witnessed a turbulent history, suffering a fire in 1736 before finally being blown up by Napoleon’s retreating troops in 1813. There’s a small museum here covering the history of the town and, thanks to recent excavations, some of the original foundations of the castle are on view. Just south of the car park is a mirador (lookout), which offers fine views over the town.
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La Fabula
With local celebrity chef Isabel Alvarez at the helm, fabulous La Fabula offers innovative slimmed-down dishes in a bright, modern dining room filled with classical music. The menu includes tasty rice dishes and summery light eats, like crispy vegetable spring rolls. Fortunately this should leave plenty of space for one of the delectable desserts. The chocolate soufflé with mango ice cream and yoghurt mousse comes plumply recommended. Reservations essential.
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Tren Turistico
- Burgos, Spain
- Activities › Bus
The cutesy Tren Turistico eaves from outside the tourist office and runs past all the major sights in town. Unfortunately, the only stop it makes on the 45-minute journey is at the mirador next to the Castillo de Burgos, but it's a good way to get an overview of the town. It runs on Friday evenings, Saturday and Sunday, with more frequent departures in summer. Buy your ticket at the tourist office.
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Casa Ojeda
Dating from 1912, this Burgos institution, all sheathed in dark wood with stunning mullioned windows, is one of the best places in town to try cordero asado. The upstairs dining room has outstanding food and faultless service. A more limited range of platos combinados is available in the downstairs bar. Reservations recommended.
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Old Quarter
Burgos' Old Quarter is stately rather than grand, austerely elegant in the manner of so many cathedral towns of Old Castilla. It can be accessed via two main bridges across Río Arlanzón including the historic Puente de San Pablo, beyond which looms a romanticised statue of El Cid with his swirling cloak and sword held aloft.
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La Comidilla de San Lorenzo
Opened in early 2010, this place has a young upbeat vibe with art exhibitions, cool modern decor and a menu that includes accomplished and innovative dishes like secreto con salsa de frambuesa (steak with raspberry sauce) and tacos de atun con puré de patatas y pimiento (tuna tacos with mashed potatoes and peppers).
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Cartuja de Miraflores
Located in peaceful woodlands 4km east of the city centre, this contains a trio of 15th-century masterworks by Gil de Siloé. The walk to the monastery along Río Arlanzón takes about one hour. To get here, head north along Paseo de la Quinta (flanking the river) from where the monastery is clearly signposted.
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Cervecería Morito
Cervecería Morito is the undisputed king of Burgos tapas bars and it’s always crowded. A typical order is alpargata (lashings of cured ham with bread, tomato and olive oil) or calamares fritos (fried calamari). The presentation is surprising nouvelle, especially the visual feast of salads.
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Monasterio de Las Huelgas
A 30-minute walk west of the city centre on the southern bank of Río Arlanzón, this monastery was once among the most prominent monasteries in Spain. Founded in 1187 by Eleanor of Aquitaine, daughter of Henry II of England and wife of Alfonso VIII of Castilla, it’s still home to 35 Cistercian nuns.
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La Favorita
Away from the main Burgos tapas hub and close to the cathedral, La Favorita has a barn-like interior of exposed brick and wooden beams, and attracts slicked-back-hair businessmen at midday. The emphasis is on local cured meats and cheeses, and wine by the glass starts at €1.50.
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Iglesia de San Esteban
Located just west of the cathedral, this is a solid 14th-century Gothic structure with an unusual porch and a Museo del Retablo with a display of some 15 altars dating from the 15th to 18th centuries.
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El Jardín del Etna
Simple well-executed vegetarian platos combinados, fresh vegetable and fruit juices and healthy puds are available at this haven of an eco-centre which also offers yoga, pilates, ayuvedic massages etc.
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Teodoro
Step back in time at this 1860s hat shop with its original interior, including the magnificent American-made (National) cash register. The elderly owner Teodoro is a charmer, the hats a delight.
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Paseo del Espolón
Running along the southeastern edge of the old town between the two bridges along the riverbank, is the Paseo del Espolón, a lovely tree-lined pedestrian area with an antique carousel.
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La Mejillonera
Another popular stand-up place, La Mejillonera serves great mussels, while the patatas bravas (potatoes with spicy tomato sauce) and calamares are other popular orders.
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Calle del Huerto del Rey
Calle del Huerto del Rey, just northeast of the cathedral and known locally as Las Llanas is another centre of night-time activity. It gets going a bit later than Calle de San Juan.
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Café España
With its old-world elegance, Café España has been a bastion of the Burgos cafe scene for more than 80 years. A pianist plays jazz here at weekends.
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Arco de Santa María
The splendid Arco de Santa María was once the main gate to the old city and part of the 14th-century walls. It now hosts temporary exhibitions.
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Buddha
For later nights on weekends, Calle del Huerto del Rey, northeast of the cathedral, has dozens of bars. Buddha comes particularly recommended.
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Europa Azul
Europa Azul has an outdoor terrace out the back that's ideal in summer and it doesn't get the crowds until later, but they're pretty cool when they arrive.
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Museo de Burgos
This museum, housed in the 16th-century Casa de Miranda, contains some fine Gothic tombs and other archeological artefacts covering a wide period.
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La Cabaña Arandino
This place doesn't quite match the atmosphere, but it's popular and the tapas are good. Locals love the tigres (mussels with spicy sauce).
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Royal
If you can withstand the brightly lit retro '70s dining area, Royal has a surprising gourmet flourish among the old culinary classics.
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