Sights in Burgos
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Coffin of El Cid
High on the northwestern wall of the Capilla de Corpus Cristi, in the the catedral, is the coffin of El Cid.
Few names resonate through Spanish history quite like El Cid, the 11th-century soldier of fortune and adventurer whose story tells in microcosm the tumultuous years when Spain was divided into Muslim and Christian zones. That El Cid has become a romantic, idealised figure of history known for his unswerving loyalty and superhuman strength owes much to the way his exploits captured the popular imagination as expressed in an anonymous 12th-century epic poem and the 1961 film starring Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren. Reality, though, presents a very different picture…
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B
Catedral
The Unesco World Heritage–listed cathedral is a masterpiece that’s probably worth the trip to Burgos on its own. It had humble origins as a modest Romanesque church, but work began on a grander scale in 1221. Remarkably, within 40 years most of the French Gothic structure that you see today had been completed. The twin towers, which went up later in the 15th century, each represent 84m of richly decorated Gothic fantasy and they’re surrounded by a sea of similarly intricate spires. Probably the most impressive of the portals is the Puerta del Sarmental, the main entrance for visitors, although the honour could also go to the Puerta de la Coronería, on the northwestern sid…
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C
Castillo de Burgos
Crowning the leafy hilltop Parque de Castillo are the massive fortifications of the rebuilt Castillo de Burgos. Dating from the 9th century, the castle has witnessed a turbulent history, suffering a fire in 1736 before finally being blown up by Napoleon’s retreating troops in 1813. There’s a small museum here covering the history of the town and, thanks to recent excavations, some of the original foundations of the castle are on view. Just south of the car park is a mirador (lookout), which offers fine views over the town.
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Old Quarter
Burgos' Old Quarter is stately rather than grand, austerely elegant in the manner of so many cathedral towns of Old Castilla. It can be accessed via two main bridges across Río Arlanzón including the historic Puente de San Pablo, beyond which looms a romanticised statue of El Cid with his swirling cloak and sword held aloft.
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Cartuja de Miraflores
Located in peaceful woodlands 4km east of the city centre, this contains a trio of 15th-century masterworks by Gil de Siloé. The walk to the monastery along Río Arlanzón takes about one hour. To get here, head north along Paseo de la Quinta (flanking the river) from where the monastery is clearly signposted.
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Monasterio de Las Huelgas
A 30-minute walk west of the city centre on the southern bank of Río Arlanzón, this monastery was once among the most prominent monasteries in Spain. Founded in 1187 by Eleanor of Aquitaine, daughter of Henry II of England and wife of Alfonso VIII of Castilla, it’s still home to 35 Cistercian nuns.
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D
Iglesia de San Esteban
Located just west of the cathedral, this is a solid 14th-century Gothic structure with an unusual porch and a Museo del Retablo with a display of some 15 altars dating from the 15th to 18th centuries.
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E
Paseo del Espolón
Running along the southeastern edge of the old town between the two bridges along the riverbank, is the Paseo del Espolón, a lovely tree-lined pedestrian area with an antique carousel.
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Arco de Santa María
The splendid Arco de Santa María was once the main gate to the old city and part of the 14th-century walls. It now hosts temporary exhibitions.
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Museo de Burgos
This museum, housed in the 16th-century Casa de Miranda, contains some fine Gothic tombs and other archeological artefacts covering a wide period.
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Monasterio de San Juan
The Monasterio de San Juan, with an evocative shell that has been converted into a museum for local artists.
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Iglesia de San Nicolás
Boasts an enormous stone-carved altar by Francisco de Colonia, with scenes from the life of St Nicolas.
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Iglesia de San Lesmes
Dates to the 15th century and is notable for its three naves and rustic charm.
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