Sights in Toledo
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Catedral
Toledo's cathedral reflects the city's historical significance as the heart of Catholic Spain.
From the earliest days of the Visigothic occupation, the current site of the cathedral has been a centre of worship. During Muslim rule, it contained Toledo's central mosque, destroyed in 1085. Dating from the 13th century and essentially a Gothic structure, the cathedral is nevertheless a melting pot of styles, including Mudéjar and Renaissance. The Visigothic influence continues today in the unique celebration of the Mozarabic Rite, a 6th-century liturgy that was allowed to endure after Cardinal Cisneros put its legitimacy to the test by burning missals in a fire of faith; they…
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Alcázar
At the highest point in the city looms the foreboding Alcázar. Abd ar-Rahman III raised an al-qasr here in the 10th century, which was thereafter altered by the Christians. Alonso Covarrubias rebuilt it as a royal residence for Carlos I, but the court moved to Madrid and the fortress eventually became a military academy.
The Alcázar was heavily damaged during the siege of the garrison by loyalist militias at the start of the Civil War in 1936. The soldiers' dogged resistance, and the commander, Moscardó's, famous refusal to give it up in exchange for his son's life, made it a powerful Nationalist symbol.
Rebuilt under Franco, it has recently been reopened as an…
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Plaza de Zocodover
This lively square is flanked by cafes that are prime places for people-watching.
From 1465 until the 1960s Zocodover was the scene of the city's Tuesday market and successor to the Arab souq ad-dawab (livestock market), hence the name. It was also here that toledanos for centuries enjoyed their bullfights or, morbidly, gathered to witness public burnings at the stake carried out by the Inquisition.
The southern flank dates from the 17th century – the McDonald's certainly does not.
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Sinagoga del Tránsito
This magnificent synagogue was built in 1355 by special permission of Pedro I. Toledo's former judería (Jewish quarter) was once home to 10 synagogues and comprised some 10% of the walled city's area. After the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, it was variously used as a priory, hermitage and military barracks. The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardí. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved pine ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological finds, a memorial garden, costumes and ceremonial artefacts. Entry is free from 2pm…
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Museo de Santa Cruz
The 16th-century Museo de Santa Cruz is a beguiling combination of Gothic and Plateresque styles. The cloisters and carved wooden ceilings are superb, as is the collection of Spanish ceramics. Also upstairs is an atmospheric cruciform gallery that contains an archaeological display, some fine Flemish religious art, a number of El Grecos, a crucifixion attributed to Goya, a flag from the battle of Lepanto, and the wonderful 15th-century Tapestry of the Astrolabes.
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Carranque
Since 1983 archaeologists at Carranque have been excavating what they believe to be the foundations of a late-4th-century Roman basilica, which would make it the oldest in Spain. The skeletal remains of Roman villas and temple-fountains are among the site's other highlights, while the remains of a 12th-century monastery with some valuable mosaics are also undergoing excavation. The admission fee includes entrance to a small interpretation centre and museum.
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Museo Sefardi
The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardi. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved (and colourful) wooden ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological finds, a memorial garden with tombstones inscribed in Hebrew, typical costumes of the Sephardic Jews and ceremonial artefacts.
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Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz
On the northern slopes of town you'll find a modest, yet beautiful, mosque, where architectural traces of Toledo's medieval Muslim conquerors are still in evidence. Built around 1000AD, it suffered the usual fate of being converted to a church (hence the religious frescoes), but the original vaulting and arches survived.
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Centro de Interpretación
The city's latest attraction is this excellent Centro de Interpretación comprising an expansive audio-visual display covering a rambling 800 sq metres. The surrounding exhibits highlight the cultural and religious history of the city with models, photos, soundtrack and film. Currently the explanations are only in Spanish, however there are plans to introduce English audioguides in the near future.
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Iglesia de Santo Tomé
Iglesia de Santo Tomé contains El Greco’s masterpiece El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz). When the count was buried in 1322, Saints Augustine and Stephen supposedly descended from heaven to attend the funeral. El Greco’s work depicts the event, complete with miracle guests including himself, his son and Cervantes.
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Jewish Quarter
Near the Museo de El Greco is what was once the judería (Jewish Quarter). 'Once' because, as a huge plaque in the cathedral proudly proclaims, the bulk of Toledo's Jews, like those elsewhere in Spain, were expelled in 1492. In the centuries prior to this, Toledo's Jews worshipped in 11 synagogues.
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Convento de Santo Domingo El Antiguo
One of the oldest convents in Toledo, the 11th-century Monasterio de Santo Domingo El Antiguo includes some of El Greco’s early commissions (most are copies). Visible through an iron grating is the crypt and wooden coffin of the painter himself.
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Cable Ferry
For great views, get the tiny, free cable ferry in summer from near Hotel El Diamantista, and walk up the opposite bank of Río Tajo. Scattered about this hinterland are many cigarrales (country estates of wealthy toledanos).
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Taller del Moro
The 14th-century Taller del Moro. Although the museum is closed for renovation (check at the tourist office for an update), the building is still interesting for its classic Islamic architecture, built in the Mudéjar style.
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Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes
This imposing 15th-century Franciscan monastery and church of San Juan de los Reyes was provocatively founded in the heart of the Jewish quarter by the Catholic Kings Isabel and Fernando to demonstrate the supposed supremacy of their faith. The rulers had planned to be buried here but eventually ended up in their prize conquest, Granada.
The highlight is the amazing two-level cloister, a harmonious fusion of late ('flamboyant') Gothic downstairs and Mudéjar architecture upstairs, with superb statuary, arches, vaulting, elaborate pinnacles and gargoyles surrounding a lush garden with orange trees and roses. It takes the breath away at first glimpse. The adjacent church has…
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Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca
This pretty Mudéjar synagogue has five naves divided by rows of horseshoe and multifoil arches. Originally the upper arches opened onto rooms where women worshipped; the men were down below. Admire the stucco work and ornate capitals; the presence of nuns and a curious exhibition sponsored by a Catholic organisation founded by a converted Jew might offend some visitors.
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Puerta Nueva de Bisagra
Large portions of the old city walls remain intact and, for many people, the first sight of old Toledo is the imposing turrets of the Puerta Nueva de Bisagra (1550), emblazoned with Carlos I's coat of arms.
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Circo Romano
From Puerta Nueva de Bisagra, down the hill to the west, is a park where you can see the ruins of the former Circo Romano.
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Museo Duque de Lerma
Built in 1541, this former hospital contains an interesting array of art, including some of El Greco's last paintings.
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Puente de Alcántara
For some of the best views of the city, head over the Puente de Alcántara to the other side of the Río Tajo.
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Castle
The village of Orgaz, which has a modest 15th-century castle in good nick.
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Iglesia San Ildefonso
You can climb the tower at the Iglesia San Ildefonso, for more camera-clicking views.
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Museo de los Concilios y Cultura Visigoda
The Museo de los Concilios y Cultura Visigoda, with Visigothic artefacts.
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Museo del Greco
In the early 20th century, an aristocrat bought up what he thought was El Greco's house and did a stunning job of returning it to period style. He was wrong, but this museum is well worth visiting anyway. As well as the house itself, with its lovely patio, there are excavated cellars from a Jewish-quarter palace and a good selection of paintings, including a set of the apostles by El Greco, a Zurbarán, and works by El Greco's son and various followers. There's good information on the painter's life and times and a pleasant garden. Entry is free on Saturday after 2pm and all day Sunday.
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Museo Sefardí
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