Sights in Toledo
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Catedral de Toledo
Toledo’s cathedral dominates the skyline, reflecting the city’s historical significance as the heart of Catholic Spain.
From the earliest days of the Visigothic occupation, the current site of the cathedral has been a centre of worship. During Muslim rule, it contained Toledo’s central mosque, destroyed in 1085. Dating from the 13th century and essentially a Gothic structure, the cathedral is nevertheless a melting pot of styles, including Mudéjar and the Spanish Renaissance.
The main nave is dominated by the coro (choir stalls), a feast of sculpture and carved wooden stalls. The 15th-century lower tier depicts the conquest of Granada.
Opposite is the Capilla Mayor…
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Alcázar
Just south off Zocodover square, at the highest point in the city, looms Toledo's most recognisable edifice, the Alcázar. Abd ar-Rahman III raised an al-qasr (fortress) here in the 10th century, which was altered after the Christians retook the town in the following century.
Alonso Covarrubias and Herrera rebuilt it as a royal residence for Carlos I, but the court moved to Madrid and it became a white elephant, eventually winding up as the Academia de la Infantería, one of the most significant army academies in Spain (now located across the Tajo valley to the east). The Alcázar was largely destroyed during the republican siege of Franco's forces in 1936, but Franco had i…
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Plaza de Zocodover
This lively square is most people's introduction to Toledo; its cafés are prime places for people-watching.
From 1465 until the 1960s, Zocodover was the scene of the city's Tuesday market and successor to the Arab souq ad-dawab (livestock market), from which the square derives its unusual name. It was also here that toledanos for centuries enjoyed their bullfights or morbidly gathered to witness autos-da-fé (public burnings at the stake) carried out by the Inquisition.
Juan de Herrera, who built El Escorial, wanted to convert the square into a grand Castilian plaza mayor (main plaza) in the late 16th century, but he was blocked by Church interests. The result is somethin…
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Sinagoga del Tránsito
This magnificent synagogue was built in 1355 by special permission of Pedro I (construction of synagogues was prohibited in Christian Spain). Toledo’s former judería (Jewish quarter) was once home to 11 synagogues. The bulk of Toledo’s Jews were tragically expelled in 1492. From 1492 until 1877, it was variously used as a priory, hermitage and military barracks. The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardi, open the same hours as the synagogue. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved wooden ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeologi…
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Museo de Santa Cruz
Just off the Plaza de Zocodover, the 16th-century Museo de Santa Cruz is a beguiling combination of Gothic and Spanish Renaissance styles. The cloisters and carved wooden ceilings are superb, as are the upstairs displays of Spanish ceramics. The ground-level gallery contains a number of El Grecos (look for the Asunción de la Virgen and the superbly rendered La Veronica), a painting attributed to Goya (Cristo Crucificado), and the wonderful 15th-century Tapestry of the Astrolabes.
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Carranque
Since 1983 archaeologists at Carranque have been excavating what they believe to be the foundations of a late-4th-century Roman basilica, which would make it the oldest in Spain. The skeletal remains of Roman villas and temple-fountains are among the site’s other highlights, while the remains of a 12th-century monastery with some valuable mosaics are also undergoing excavation. The admission fee includes entrance to a small interpretation centre and museum.
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Museo Sefardi
The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardi. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved (and colourful) wooden ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological finds, a memorial garden with tombstones inscribed in Hebrew, typical costumes of the Sephardic Jews and ceremonial artefacts.
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Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz
On the northern slopes of town you’ll find a modest, yet beautiful, mosque, where architectural traces of Toledo’s medieval Muslim conquerors are still in evidence. Built in the 10th century, it suffered the usual fate of being converted to a church (hence the religious frescoes), but the original vaulting and arches survived. The narrow, steep Calle del Cristo de la Luz continues via the Islamic-named Bab al-Mardum gate.
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Centro de Interpretación
The city's latest attraction is this excellent Centro de Interpretación comprising an expansive audio-visual display covering a rambling 800 sq metres. The surrounding exhibits highlight the cultural and religious history of the city with models, photos, soundtrack and film. Currently the explanations are only in Spanish, however there are plans to introduce English audioguides in the near future.
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Iglesia de Santo Tomé
Iglesia de Santo Tomé contains El Greco’s masterpiece El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz). When the count was buried in 1322, Saints Augustine and Stephen supposedly descended from heaven to attend the funeral. El Greco’s work depicts the event, complete with miracle guests including himself, his son and Cervantes.
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Jewish Quarter
Near the Museo de El Greco is what was once the judería (Jewish Quarter). 'Once' because, as a huge plaque in the cathedral proudly proclaims, the bulk of Toledo's Jews, like those elsewhere in Spain, were expelled in 1492. In the centuries prior to this, Toledo's Jews worshipped in 11 synagogues.
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Monasterio de Santo Domingo El Antiguo
One of the oldest convents in Toledo, the 11th-century Monasterio de Santo Domingo El Antiguo includes some of El Greco’s early commissions (most are copies). Visible through an iron grating is the crypt and wooden coffin of the painter himself.
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Cable Ferry
For great views, get the tiny, free cable ferry in summer from near Hotel El Diamantista, and walk up the opposite bank of Río Tajo. Scattered about this hinterland are many cigarrales (country estates of wealthy toledanos).
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Taller del Moro
The 14th-century Taller del Moro. Although the museum is closed for renovation (check at the tourist office for an update), the building is still interesting for its classic Islamic architecture, built in the Mudéjar style.
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San Juan de los Reyes
North of the synagogues lies the early-17th-century Franciscan monastery and church of San Juan de los Reyes, notable for its delightful cloisters, which encircle a classic garden with a fountain, orange trees and roses.
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Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca
This synagogue is characterised by the horseshoe arches that delineate the five naves – classic Almohad architecture. Originally the upper arches opened onto rooms where women worshipped; the men worshipped down below.
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Puerta Nueva de Bisagra
Large portions of the old city walls remain intact and, for many people, the first sight of old Toledo is the imposing turrets of the Puerta Nueva de Bisagra (1550), emblazoned with Carlos I's coat of arms.
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Circo Romano
From Puerta Nueva de Bisagra, down the hill to the west, is a park where you can see the ruins of the former Circo Romano.
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Museo Duque de Lerma
Built in 1541, this former hospital contains an interesting array of art, including some of El Greco's last paintings.
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Puente de Alcántara
For some of the best views of the city, head over the Puente de Alcántara to the other side of the Río Tajo.
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Castle
The village of Orgaz, which has a modest 15th-century castle in good nick.
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Iglesia San Ildefonso
You can climb the tower at the Iglesia San Ildefonso, for more camera-clicking views.
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Museo de los Concilios y Cultura Visigoda
The Museo de los Concilios y Cultura Visigoda, with Visigothic artefacts.
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Museo de El Greco
The Museo de El Greco has around two dozen of El Greco’s minor works.
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