Sights in Castilla La Mancha
-
A
Catedral de Toledo
Toledo's cathedral dominates the skyline, reflecting the city's historical significance as the heart of Catholic Spain.
From the earliest days of the Visigothic occupation, the current site of the cathedral has been a centre of worship. During Muslim rule, it contained Toledo's central mosque, destroyed in 1085. Dating from the 13th century and essentially a Gothic structure, the cathedral is nevertheless a melting pot of styles, including Mudéjar and the Spanish Renaissance.
The main nave is dominated by the coro (choir stalls), a feast of sculpture and carved wooden stalls. The 15th-century lower tier depicts the conquest of Granada.
Opposite is the Capilla Mayor, an extr…
reviewed
-
B
Alcázar
At the highest point in the city, looms the foreboding Alcázar. Abd ar-Rahman III raised an al-qasr here in the 10th century, which was thereafter altered by the Christians. Alonso Covarrubias and Herrera rebuilt it as a royal residence for Carlos I, but the court moved to Madrid and the fortress became a white elephant, eventually becoming the Academia de la Infantería (Military Academy).
The Alcázar was largely destroyed during the siege of Franco's forces in 1936 but Franco had it rebuilt and turned into a military museum. At the time of research the museum was closed for major renovations, with no completion date available.
reviewed
-
Nacimiento del Río Mundo
Take a photo of yourself standing in front of the Nacimiento del Río Mundo, send it to the folks back home and they will think that you have sidestepped to Niagara Falls for the day. To get to these amazing waterfalls, follow the signs just before Riópar for around 8km – past the amusing pictorial ‘beware of the amfibos (frogs) ’ signs – until you reach the entrance and car park. It’s a short walk through the forest of mainly coniferous trees to the bottom of the falls, where the water splashes and courses via several rock pools. There are two miradors: the first is at the base of the falls with neck-craning views of the dramatic waterfall above; it’s a steep climb …
reviewed
-
Ruinas Romanas de Valeria
The fascinating archaeological site Ruinas Romanas de Valeria is located just outside the village of Valeria, 34km south of Cuenca. It is hardly known to tourists, which equals that rare evocative pleasure of wandering around the site of a former sizeable Roman town without the distraction of coach tours and school groups. The location is fittingly sublime, set amid wild meadows and flanked by dramatic gorges. There are also remains of a medieval castle crowning the hillside. Stretching below this, dating from 82 BC, are remains of a forum (the best preserved in Spain), as well as a basilica, four reservoirs (used for water supply), urban streets and the well-preserved re…
reviewed
-
C
Plaza de Zocodover
This lively square is flanked by cafes that are prime places for people-watching.
From 1465 until the 1960s Zocodover was the scene of the city's Tuesday market and successor to the Arab souq ad-dawab (livestock market), hence the name. It was also here that toledanos for centuries enjoyed their bullfights or, morbidly, gathered to witness public burnings at the stake carried out by the Inquisition.
The southern flank dates from the 17th century – the McDonald's certainly does not.
reviewed
-
D
Sinagoga del Tránsito
This magnificent synagogue was built in 1355 by special permission of Pedro I (construction of synagogues was prohibited in Christian Spain). Toledo's former judería (Jewish quarter) was once home to 11 synagogues. The bulk of Toledo's Jews were tragically expelled in 1492. From 1492 until 1877, it was variously used as a priory, hermitage and military barracks. The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardi, open the same hours as the synagogue. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved wooden ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological …
reviewed
-
E
Museo de Arte Abstracto Español
Although strolling around old Cuenca can feel like you've been dropped in the middle of a medieval museum, this is not just a place of ancient history. This impressive contemporary art museum is one of several spaces lauding modern art and sculpture. This is the best known, however, with its galleries occupying one of the casas colgadas. Begun as an attempt by Fernando Zóbel to unite the works of his fellow artists from the so-called Abstract Generation of the 1950s and '60s, the museum's constantly evolving displays include works by Chillida, Tápies and Millares. Don't miss the extraordinary landscapes by Eusebio Sempere (1924–85), which really capture the colourful patt…
reviewed
-
F
Casas Colgadas
The most striking element of medieval Cuenca, the casas colgadas jut out precariously over the steep defile of Río Huécar. Dating from the 16th century, the houses, with their layers of wooden balconies, seem to emerge from the rock as if an extension of the cliffs. The finest restored examples now house an upmarket restaurant and the abstract-art museum, both of which make excellent use of the former limited living space. For the best views of the casas colgadas, cross the Puente de San Pablo footbridge or walk to the mirador at the northernmost tip of the old town.
reviewed
-
Segóbriga
These ruins may date as far back as the 5th century BC. The best-preserved structures are a Roman theatre and amphitheatre on the fringes of the ancient city, looking out over a valley. Other remains include the outlines of a Visigothic basilica and a section of the aqueduct, which helped keep the city green in what was otherwise a desert. There is also a small museum included in the price with some striking exhibits, including, among others, a tiny, exquisitely carved Venus made from bone and life-size sculptures dating from the 1st to 3rd centuries AD.
The site is near Saelices, 2km south of the A3 motorway between Madrid and Albacete. From Cuenca, drive west 55km on th…
reviewed
-
G
Museo de Santa Cruz
Just off the Plaza de Zocodover, the 16th-century Museo de Santa Cruz is a beguiling combination of Gothic and Spanish Renaissance styles. The cloisters and carved wooden ceilings are superb, as are the upstairs displays of Spanish ceramics. The ground-level gallery contains a number of El Grecos (look for the Asunción de la Virgen and the superbly rendered La Veronica), a painting attributed to Goya (Cristo Crucificado), and the wonderful 15th-century Tapestry of the Astrolabes.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Carranque
Since 1983 archaeologists at Carranque have been excavating what they believe to be the foundations of a late-4th-century Roman basilica, which would make it the oldest in Spain. The skeletal remains of Roman villas and temple-fountains are among the site's other highlights, while the remains of a 12th-century monastery with some valuable mosaics are also undergoing excavation. The admission fee includes entrance to a small interpretation centre and museum.
reviewed
-
H
Ars Natura
Opened in May 2010, this impressive interpretation centre has several vast galleries with interactive exhibits ranging from local flora and fauna to basket-weaving video demonstrations. Climate change, local geology, environmental impact studies and overall sustainability are given the hands-on approach, which makes this an ideal outing for children and students. Currently all the information is in Spanish, but there are plans to provide English translations.
reviewed
-
I
Museo Sefardi
The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardi. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved (and colourful) wooden ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological finds, a memorial garden with tombstones inscribed in Hebrew, typical costumes of the Sephardic Jews and ceremonial artefacts.
reviewed
-
J
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz
On the northern slopes of town you'll find a modest, yet beautiful, mosque, where architectural traces of Toledo's medieval Muslim conquerors are still in evidence. Built in the 10th century, it suffered the usual fate of being converted to a church (hence the religious frescoes), but the original vaulting and arches survived. The narrow, steep Calle del Cristo de la Luz continues via the Islamic-named Bab al-Mardum gate.
reviewed
-
K
Centro de Interpretación
The city's latest attraction is this excellent Centro de Interpretación comprising an expansive audio-visual display covering a rambling 800 sq metres. The surrounding exhibits highlight the cultural and religious history of the city with models, photos, soundtrack and film. Currently the explanations are only in Spanish, however there are plans to introduce English audioguides in the near future.
reviewed
-
L
Catedral
The main facade of Cuenca’s cathedral is hardly Spain’s finest – a pastiche of unfortunate 16th-century Gothic experimentation and 20th-century restoration. Built on the site of a mosque, highlights within include several stunning stained-glass windows, the result of a competition among local artists in 1990. The abstract designs fuse well with the Gothic architecture and lofty fan vaulting.
reviewed
-
Cuevas y Mirador del Diablo
Forget stalagmites, cave drawings and coach tours – Alcalá’s Cuevas y Mirador del Diablo is not your conventional cave. The first inkling comes when owner Juan José Martinez Garcia appears to collect your entrance fee sporting a sweeping Dalí-clone moustache. It transpires he grew up in the maestro’s home town of Cadaqués. OK, so that makes sense – sort of.
reviewed
-
M
Iglesia de Santo Tomé
Iglesia de Santo Tomé contains El Greco’s masterpiece El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz). When the count was buried in 1322, Saints Augustine and Stephen supposedly descended from heaven to attend the funeral. El Greco’s work depicts the event, complete with miracle guests including himself, his son and Cervantes.
reviewed
-
Castles
About 25km northeast of Mota del Cuervo, Belmonte has one of the better-preserved 15th-century Castilian castles. This is how castles should look, with turrets, largely intact walls and a commanding position over the village. The castle was once home to France’s Empress Eugénie after her husband, Napoleon III, lost the French throne in 1871.
reviewed
-
Ciudad Encantada
The extraordinary Ciudad Encantada, surrounded by pine woods, limestone rocks, have been eroded into fantastical shapes by nature. The shaded 40-minute circuit around the open-air rock museum is great for breaking up a car journey. It’s crowded with madrileños at weekends and there are several (albeit pricey) places to eat and drink.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Castle
This is the place for the novice windmill spotter, where you can get that classic shot of nine molinos de vientos (windmills) flanking Consuegra’s 12th-century castle. Consuegra once belonged to the Knights of Malta; a few rooms in the castle have been done up to give a good indication of how the knights would have lived.
reviewed
-
Consuegra
This is the place for the novice windmill-spotter, where you can get that classic shot of a dozen molinos de vientos (windmills) flanking the 13th-century castle. Consuegra once belonged to the Knights of Malta; a few rooms in the castle have been done up to give a good indication of how the knights would have lived.
reviewed
-
N
Espacio Torner
Yet another space where the inside feels about five centuries younger than the outside. Located adjacent to the parador, it displays abstract paintings and sculptures by Gustavo Torner, one of several abstract artists who made Cuenca their home in the 1960s. The soaring vaulted ceilings and combination of space and height are exceptionally powerful.
reviewed
-
O
Museo de la Semana Santa
This museum is the next best thing to experiencing Semana Santa firsthand. Spread over two floors are audiovisual displays showing the processions by local brotherhoods, against a background of sombre music. Displays include costumes and a 20-minute film (in Spanish), in which the locals explain their passion for this annual religious ritual.
reviewed
-
Palacio de los Duques del Infantado
While little remains of Guadalajara’s glory days, the much-restored Palacio de los Duques del Infantado, where the Mendoza family held court, is worth a visit if you’re passing by. Its striking facade is a fine example of Gothic Mudéjar work and the heavily ornamental patio is equally entrancing.
reviewed
