Things to do in Cuenca
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Museo de Arte Abstracto Español
Although strolling around old Cuenca can feel like you've been dropped in the middle of a medieval museum, this is not just a place of ancient history. This impressive contemporary art museum is one of several spaces lauding modern art and sculpture. This is the best known, however, with its galleries occupying one of the casas colgadas. Begun as an attempt by Fernando Zóbel to unite the works of his fellow artists from the so-called Abstract Generation of the 1950s and '60s, the museum's constantly evolving displays include works by Chillida, Tápies and Millares. Don't miss the extraordinary landscapes by Eusebio Sempere (1924–85), which really capture the colourful patt…
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Casas Colgadas
The most striking element of medieval Cuenca, the casas colgadas jut out precariously over the steep defile of Río Huécar. Dating from the 16th century, the houses, with their layers of wooden balconies, seem to emerge from the rock as if an extension of the cliffs. The finest restored examples now house an upmarket restaurant and the abstract-art museum, both of which make excellent use of the former limited living space. For the best views of the casas colgadas, cross the Puente de San Pablo footbridge or walk to the mirador at the northernmost tip of the old town.
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La Bodeguilla de Basilio
Arrive here with an appetite, as you're presented with a complimentary plate of tapas when you order a drink, and not just a slice of dried-up cheese – typical freebies are a combo of quail eggs, ham, fried potatoes, lettuce hearts and courgettes. Understandably, it gets packed out, so head to the restaurant out back for more of the same (except you have to pay). If you are bored with conversation, the walls are covered with fascinating clutter, ranging from old pics of Cuenca to farming tools.
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Ars Natura
Opened in May 2010, this impressive interpretation centre has several vast galleries with interactive exhibits ranging from local flora and fauna to basket-weaving video demonstrations. Climate change, local geology, environmental impact studies and overall sustainability are given the hands-on approach, which makes this an ideal outing for children and students. Currently all the information is in Spanish, but there are plans to provide English translations.
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Catedral
The main facade of Cuenca’s cathedral is hardly Spain’s finest – a pastiche of unfortunate 16th-century Gothic experimentation and 20th-century restoration. Built on the site of a mosque, highlights within include several stunning stained-glass windows, the result of a competition among local artists in 1990. The abstract designs fuse well with the Gothic architecture and lofty fan vaulting.
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Manolo de la Osa
Following the success of his flagship Las Rejas restaurant in nearby Las Pedroñeras, celebrated chef Manuel de la Osa has opened up this superb restaurant at Ars Natura. Osa creates unique dishes using traditional local ingredients, like red partridge salad with butter beans and oyster mushrooms. The decor is suitably elegant. Reservations are essential.
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Espacio Torner
Yet another space where the inside feels about five centuries younger than the outside. Located adjacent to the parador, it displays abstract paintings and sculptures by Gustavo Torner, one of several abstract artists who made Cuenca their home in the 1960s. The soaring vaulted ceilings and combination of space and height are exceptionally powerful.
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Museo de la Semana Santa
This museum is the next best thing to experiencing Semana Santa firsthand. Spread over two floors are audiovisual displays showing the processions by local brotherhoods, against a background of sombre music. Displays include costumes and a 20-minute film (in Spanish), in which the locals explain their passion for this annual religious ritual.
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American Piccolo
Weary of the ubiquitous meaty fare? This independent restaurant packs in young couples on an affordable date, with its welcoming, diverse menu of Tex-Mex, Italian and Argentinean cuisine. Expect reliably acceptable rather than exceptional cuisine, with more than 125 dishes plus an adventurous wine list with plenty of imports.
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Comedor Posada de San José
The Canadian owner has sensibly ensured that tourists can eat here according to their timetable back home. The food is uncomplicated and good, ranging from the reliable classic of fried eggs and (homemade) chips to solomillo de cerdo a la sidra (pork loin in cider). Desserts include strawberries and cream.
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Beret-and-smock types can happily overdose in this town. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo has galleries spread over four floors within the former San Clemente convent. Spanish and international artists are represented in a mixed bag of mainly abstract paintings and sculptures.
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Mesón Casas Colgadas
Housed in one of the casas colgadas, Cuenca's gourmet pride and joy fuses an amazing location with delicious traditional food on the menu, such as venison stew and the quaintly translated boned little pork hands stew (pig-trotter stew). Reservations are recommended.
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Museo Diocesano
Appropriately close to the cathedral, this museum has exhibits of richly embroidered tapestries, plus sculptures, rugs and paintings, including two canvases by El Greco. A 14th-century Byzantine diptych is the jewel in the crown. How such a piece ended up in Cuenca is a mystery.
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Museo de Cuenca
Exceptionally well-laid-out and well-documented (in Spanish) exhibits range from the Bronze Age to the 18th century. Sala 7 is particularly awe inspiring, with its original Roman statues, including Emperor Augustus, plus columns and pediments discovered at nearby Segóbriga.
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Playa Municipal
The Playa Municipal is an artificial beach, complete with two swimming pools, located in a valley by the river 1km from town. Lie back and revel in the view of Cuenca and looming rocks above you.
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Bar La Tinaja
Enjoying an ace position beside the cathedral, this place is typically crowded with crusty locals here for the delicious (and free) tapas provided with every drink. The pasta dishes (€5.50) are good, too.
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Fundación Antonio Pérez
Galleries are spread over four floors within the former San Clemente convent. Spanish and international artists are represented in a mixed bag of mainly abstract paintings and sculptures.
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Lolita Lounge Bar
A slick new bar with lots of steely metal, grey slate and sculpted black (ceiling). Cocktails, imported beers and a good mix of music attract the high-heeled and slicked-back-hair set.
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Museo de Las Ciencias
Another family-friendly museum, there are displays that range from a time-machine to plenty of interactive gadgets to keep the kiddies happy. There is also a planetarium.
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Torre de Mangana
The Torre de Mangana, near Plaza Mangana, is the last remnant of a fortress that was built by Cuenca's Muslim rulers. It is all that remains of Cuenca's days as a Muslim town.
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Restaurante Figón del Huécar
This dress-for-dinner place specialises in Castilian specialities, as well as more-unusual plates, like codfish and potatoes with a mango sauce. Reservations are recommended.
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Ruiz
Popular with powdered ladies here for the delicious cakes, pastries and light snacks to accompany their café con leche (coffee with milk).
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Bar Café del Castillo
Well sited for views from the large terrace, this spirited place is perfect for that late-night coffee, with a dozen of the spiked variety on offer.
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Restaurante San Nicolás
Another fine establishment for solid Castilian-Manchegan food with an emphasis on bacalao (cod) and game. Reservations recommended.
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El Ajibe
Elegant restaurant serving classy traditional cooking, including roast leg of lamb with a creamy mustard sauce. Reserve ahead.
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