Things to do in Cantabria, Asturias & Galicia
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Catedral de Santiago de Compostela
The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered spires and statues. Though Galicia's grandest monument was built piecemeal through the centuries, its beauty is only enhanced by the mix of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic flourishes. What you see today is actually the fourth church to stand on this spot. The bulk of it was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, with a traditional Latin-cross layout and three naves. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless trimmings) came later. The cathedral's artistic and architectural riches fill guidebooks of their own (a worthwhile investment at around €7…
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La Conveniente
This cavernous bodega has high stone walls, wooden pillars and beams, and more wine bottles than you may ever have seen in one place. Squeeze into the tramlike enclosure at the front or line up for a seat out back (or just snack at the bar). The food offerings are fairly straightforward – tablas (platters) of cheese, embutidos (sausages), ham, pâtés – and servings are generous.
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Casa Marcelo
Eating is an occasion at this mod-rustic gourmet dining den just down the hill from Praza do Obradoiro. A different five-course creative feast is prepared daily, with specialties like cockles with mango and pepper, and with the kitchen in full view.
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La Bodeguilla de San Roque
Just northeast of the old town, this busy two-storey restaurant serves an eclectic range of excellent dishes ranging from salads and scrambled eggs to Galician veal fillet or plates of cheeses, sausages or ham.
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Walking Tour of Santander
If you'd like to take a self-guided tour, or simply an informal wander, begin within the stately Plaza Porticada, which is surrounded by 64 porticoes.
Proceed down past the post office to the cathedral. Below it, amid a traffic circle, a poignant sculpture recalls the devastation of the 1941 fire. To the east spreads the lovely Jardines de Pereda, named after the Cantabrian writer José María de Pereda, whose seminal work, Escenas Montañesas, is illustrated in bronze and stone here. Opposite the park you'll see the 1950s Banco de Santander building, one of the country's major financial institutions. Going through its grand archway you enter the old quarter. Proceed thro…
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Museo da Catedral
The many-roomed Museo da Catedral, entered to the right of the cathedral's Obradoiro facade, spreads over four floors and includes the cathedral's large 16th-century, Gothic/plateresque cloister. You'll see Maestro Mateo's original stone choir (destroyed in 1603 but recently pieced back together), rooms of tapestries including a set from designs by Goya, an impressive collection of religious art (including the botafumeiro, in the second-floor library), the lavishly decorated 18th-century sala capitular (chapter house), and, off the cloister, the treasury and the Panteón de Reyes, which contains tombs of kings of medieval León. The museum ticket also covers the crypt benea…
reviewed
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Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered spires and statues. Though Galicia's grandest monument was built piecemeal through the centuries, its beauty is only enhanced by the enticing mix of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic flourishes. What you see before you is actually the fourth church to stand on this spot. The bulk of it was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style with a traditional Latin-cross layout and three naves. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless trimmings) came later. Its artistic and architectural riches fill guidebooks of their own; you'd need days to see it all.
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Catedral del Apóstol
Anyone who has journeyed along the Camino de Santiago will hardly be disappointed on finally entering Praza do Obradoiro to behold the lavish baroque façade of the Catedral del Apóstol. Before this elaborately festive façade was built in the 18th century, the less overwhelming but artistically unparalleled Pórtico de la Gloria (Galician: Porta da Gloria) - now behind the baroque façade - was the first scene to greet weary pilgrims.
The bulk of the cathedral was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, and the Pórtico de la Gloria was its original façade. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless flourishes) came later.
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Catedral de la Asunción
Santander's cathedral is composed of two Gothic churches, one above the other. The 14th-century upper church, off which is a 15th-century cloister, was extensively rebuilt after the 1941 fire. In the lower, 13th-century, Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo, glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints. The care of these holy relics, brought (according to legend) from La Rioja to escape the Muslim invasion, prompted the construction of the monastery that originally stood here.
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Cathedral
This building is composed of two 13th-century Gothic churches, one above the other. The upper church, off which is a 14th-century cloister, was extensively rebuilt after the 1941 fire. In the lower Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints.
The care of these holy relics, found on this site, prompted the construction of the monastery that previously stood here.
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Mosteiro de San Paio de Antealtares
Across the plaza from the Puerta Santa is the long, stark wall of the Mosteiro de San Paio de Antealtares, founded by Alfonso II for Benedictine monks to look after St James' relics, and converted to a nunnery in 1499.
Climbing the steps at the top of the plaza you'll find the entrance to the convent, above which stands the beatific figure of the 10th-century Galician child saint San Paio, his throat being slashed in reference to his martyrdom in Córdoba. Keep an eye out for the sacred art museum, containing the original alter raised over the Santiago relics.
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Biblioteca de Menéndez Pelayo
In a portentous building, at the same address as Museo de Bellas Artes, the Biblioteca de Menéndez Pelayo is a vast old library that belonged to local intellectual giant Marcelino Menéndez Pelayo (1856–1912), a teacher, philosopher and poet who left the city his precious collection of 41,500 volumes. Next door stands his family home, the Casa Museo de Menéndez Pelayo (Tel: 942 23 44 93; admission free; 10.30am-1pm & 6.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1pm Sat).
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A Curtidoría
Understatedly stylish and a favourite lunch spot with locals, A Curtidoría overlooks four streets from its two dining rooms and specialises in inventive but uncomplicated fish, meat and rice dishes like crab-stuffed peppers, grilled turbot with glazed vegies or entrecote with wild mushroom sauce. It offers a number of vegetarian dishes and a menu for celiacs, and the good menú del día (€12) is also available Monday to Wednesday evenings.
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Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico
If seafaring is your thing, visit the maritime museum near the bay beaches. The four floors cover all facets of Cantabria's relationship with the sea, and include an aquarium. The displays range from marine biology to maritime history, which is perhaps the most interesting, dealing, for example, with Portus Victoriae, the Roman port town from which Santander later grew. The 60-tonne whale skeleton is a star attraction.
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Península de la Magdalena
These parklands are perfect for a stroll and are popular with picnickers. Kids will enjoy the sea lions and the little train that choo-choos around the headland. The peninsula is crowned by the Palacio de la Magdalena, the former royal palace. It's an exuberant and eclectic pile, built between 1908 and 1912 as a gift from the city to the royal family, which used it every summer until 1930.
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Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo
In the Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints. The care of these holy relics, found on this site, prompted the construction of the monastery that previously stood here.
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Escuela de Surf Santander
Surfers emerge in force along El Sardinero when the waves are right. Playa de Somo, across the bay, can also be good. Three or four shops on Calle de Cádiz and Calle Méndez Núñez sell boards and wetsuits. The Escuela de Surf Santander is a surf school (€50 for two hours' private tuition) with boards for rent (€6 per hour).
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Días Desur
The white brick walls, black-and-white photos and space to sit and converse augur something out of the ordinary, and the tapas meet that challenge with their mix of Cantabrian, Andalucian and international flavours. Try a mini chicken tandoori brochette or a quesadilla with ibérico ham and cream cheese, along with a glass of one of the lyrically described wines.
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Cathedral Rooftop Tour
For an unforgettable bird's-eye view of the city, take the cathedral rooftop tour organised by the Museo da Catedral. This tour is the only way to visit the Gothic Pazo de Xelmírez (1120), where the main banquet hall is adorned with exquisite little wall busts depicting feasters, musicians, kings and jugglers.
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Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario Church
The huge Benedictine Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario, a seminary that's closed to the public except in summer, when it opens as a hostal. The monastery's elaborate baroque church now operates as a museum featuring the beautifully carved Renaissance choir stalls originally used in the cathedral.
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Praza do Obradoiro
Praza do Obradoiro, to which most arriving Camino pilgrims instinctively find their way, earned its name from the stonemasons’ workshops set up here while Catedral de Santiago de Compostela was being built. Along the western side of the square is the elegant 18th-century Pazo de Raxoi, now the city hall.
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Praza das Praterías
Praza das Praterías is marked with the Fuente de los Caballos (1829) fountain, with Catedral de Santiago de Compostela's south facade at the top of the steps. Curiously, the Casa do Cabildo, facing it on the lower side of the square, is no more than a 3m-deep facade, erected in 1758 to embellish the plaza.
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Sargadelos
Santiago's old town is littered with shops selling handicrafts, including the characteristic local jet or jet-and-silver jewellery, which is beautiful and ornate. You'll find plenty of traditional Galician lace here, too. Sargadelos sells the attractive ceramics made in the Galician village of Sargadelos (near Lugo).
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Restaurante Ó Dezaseis
Wood-beam ceilings and exposed stone walls give an invitingly rustic air to this popular cellar tavern just beyond the northeast edge of the old town. The mixed crowd tucks into specialities like caldeirada de rape y rodaballo (monkfish and turbot casserole) and lacón con grelos (ham with greens).
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