Sights in Cantabria, Asturias & Galicia
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Catedral de Santiago de Compostela
The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered spires and statues. Though Galicia's grandest monument was built piecemeal through the centuries, its beauty is only enhanced by the mix of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic flourishes. What you see today is actually the fourth church to stand on this spot. The bulk of it was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, with a traditional Latin-cross layout and three naves. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless trimmings) came later. The cathedral's artistic and architectural riches fill guidebooks of their own (a worthwhile investment at around €7…
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Museo da Catedral
The many-roomed Museo da Catedral, entered to the right of the cathedral's Obradoiro facade, spreads over four floors and includes the cathedral's large 16th-century, Gothic/plateresque cloister. You'll see Maestro Mateo's original stone choir (destroyed in 1603 but recently pieced back together), rooms of tapestries including a set from designs by Goya, an impressive collection of religious art (including the botafumeiro, in the second-floor library), the lavishly decorated 18th-century sala capitular (chapter house), and, off the cloister, the treasury and the Panteón de Reyes, which contains tombs of kings of medieval León. The museum ticket also covers the crypt benea…
reviewed
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Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered spires and statues. Though Galicia's grandest monument was built piecemeal through the centuries, its beauty is only enhanced by the enticing mix of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic flourishes. What you see before you is actually the fourth church to stand on this spot. The bulk of it was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style with a traditional Latin-cross layout and three naves. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless trimmings) came later. Its artistic and architectural riches fill guidebooks of their own; you'd need days to see it all.
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Catedral del Apóstol
Anyone who has journeyed along the Camino de Santiago will hardly be disappointed on finally entering Praza do Obradoiro to behold the lavish baroque façade of the Catedral del Apóstol. Before this elaborately festive façade was built in the 18th century, the less overwhelming but artistically unparalleled Pórtico de la Gloria (Galician: Porta da Gloria) - now behind the baroque façade - was the first scene to greet weary pilgrims.
The bulk of the cathedral was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, and the Pórtico de la Gloria was its original façade. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless flourishes) came later.
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Catedral de la Asunción
Santander's cathedral is composed of two Gothic churches, one above the other. The 14th-century upper church, off which is a 15th-century cloister, was extensively rebuilt after the 1941 fire. In the lower, 13th-century, Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo, glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints. The care of these holy relics, brought (according to legend) from La Rioja to escape the Muslim invasion, prompted the construction of the monastery that originally stood here.
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Cathedral
This building is composed of two 13th-century Gothic churches, one above the other. The upper church, off which is a 14th-century cloister, was extensively rebuilt after the 1941 fire. In the lower Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints.
The care of these holy relics, found on this site, prompted the construction of the monastery that previously stood here.
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Mosteiro de San Paio de Antealtares
Across the plaza from the Puerta Santa is the long, stark wall of the Mosteiro de San Paio de Antealtares, founded by Alfonso II for Benedictine monks to look after St James' relics, and converted to a nunnery in 1499.
Climbing the steps at the top of the plaza you'll find the entrance to the convent, above which stands the beatific figure of the 10th-century Galician child saint San Paio, his throat being slashed in reference to his martyrdom in Córdoba. Keep an eye out for the sacred art museum, containing the original alter raised over the Santiago relics.
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Biblioteca de Menéndez Pelayo
In a portentous building, at the same address as Museo de Bellas Artes, the Biblioteca de Menéndez Pelayo is a vast old library that belonged to local intellectual giant Marcelino Menéndez Pelayo (1856–1912), a teacher, philosopher and poet who left the city his precious collection of 41,500 volumes. Next door stands his family home, the Casa Museo de Menéndez Pelayo (Tel: 942 23 44 93; admission free; 10.30am-1pm & 6.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1pm Sat).
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Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico
If seafaring is your thing, visit the maritime museum near the bay beaches. The four floors cover all facets of Cantabria's relationship with the sea, and include an aquarium. The displays range from marine biology to maritime history, which is perhaps the most interesting, dealing, for example, with Portus Victoriae, the Roman port town from which Santander later grew. The 60-tonne whale skeleton is a star attraction.
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Península de la Magdalena
These parklands are perfect for a stroll and are popular with picnickers. Kids will enjoy the sea lions and the little train that choo-choos around the headland. The peninsula is crowned by the Palacio de la Magdalena, the former royal palace. It's an exuberant and eclectic pile, built between 1908 and 1912 as a gift from the city to the royal family, which used it every summer until 1930.
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Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo
In the Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo glass panels reveal excavated bits of Roman Santander under the floor. Displayed nearby are silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander's patron saints. The care of these holy relics, found on this site, prompted the construction of the monastery that previously stood here.
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Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario Church
The huge Benedictine Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario, a seminary that's closed to the public except in summer, when it opens as a hostal. The monastery's elaborate baroque church now operates as a museum featuring the beautifully carved Renaissance choir stalls originally used in the cathedral.
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Praza do Obradoiro
Praza do Obradoiro, to which most arriving Camino pilgrims instinctively find their way, earned its name from the stonemasons’ workshops set up here while Catedral de Santiago de Compostela was being built. Along the western side of the square is the elegant 18th-century Pazo de Raxoi, now the city hall.
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Praza das Praterías
Praza das Praterías is marked with the Fuente de los Caballos (1829) fountain, with Catedral de Santiago de Compostela's south facade at the top of the steps. Curiously, the Casa do Cabildo, facing it on the lower side of the square, is no more than a 3m-deep facade, erected in 1758 to embellish the plaza.
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Museo de Arte Sacra
The Museo de Arte Sacra contains the original altar raised over Santiago relics. The church itself is of relatively simple design, with the exception of its main altar, a frenzy of gilded baroque. You can stop by in the evening to hear the nuns singing vespers.
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Playa del Puntal
A finger of sand jutting out from the eastern side of the bay roughly opposite Playa de la Magdalena, is idyllic on calm days (but beware the currents). Boats sail there every 30 minutes between 10:00 and 20:00 June to late September, from the Estación Marítima Los Reginas.
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Colexiata de Santa María do Sar
About 1km south of the old town along Rúa do Patio de Madres stands, precariously (it suffers a pronounced tilt), the Romanesque Colexiata de Santa María do Sar. Part of the beautiful cloister can still be admired and there's a small museum, mainly of Romanesque sculpture.
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Palacio Municipal de Deportes
Architecture buffs will want to swing by the Palacio Municipal de Deportes, a sports pavilion with room for 6000 spectators that looks like it's from Lost in Space. The stainless-steel-and-glass coating has the air of something cooked up by NASA.
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Museo Regional de Prehistoria y Arqueología de Cantabria
Under one roof this museum brings together collections of prehistoric finds across the region, including some elements from the Cueva de Altamira. Among the highlights are copies of cave paintings and some Roman stellae, accompanied by interpretations of their texts.
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Galicia Dixital
Galicia Dixital occupies the left flank of Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario. It is full of interactive audiovisual fun like a simulated roller-coaster ride over Santiago’s rooftops and an underwater adventure off the Galician coast.
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Colexio de Fonseca
Located south of Catedral de Santiago de Compostela, and in the cafe-lined Praza de Fonseca, the Colexio de Fonseca with a beautiful Renaissance courtyard and exhibition gallery was the original seat of Santiago’s university (founded in 1495).
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Museo de Bellas Artes
Santander’s extensive Fine Arts Museum offers an eclectic collection spanning the 16th to 20th centuries. Much of it is secondary Spanish art, though you’ll find the odd curio, such as Goya’s portrait of King Fernando VII.
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Museo do Pobo Galego
A short walk northeast of the old town, the former Convento de San Domingo de Bonaval houses exhibits on Galician life and arts ranging from the fishing industry to music and traditional costumes.
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Puerta Santa
Following the cathedral walls you enter Praza da Quintana. Here is the cathedral's Puerta Santa, opened only in holy years when the Feast of Santiago (25 July) falls on a Sunday.
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Fundación Marcelino Botín
Check out the latest art exhibitions in the Fundación Marcelino Botín. Prices and hours vary from one exhibition to the next.
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