Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered spires and statues. Though Galicia's grandest monument was built piecemeal through the centuries, its beauty is only enhanced by the mix of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic flourishes. What you see today is actually the fourth church to stand on this spot. The bulk of it was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, with a traditional Latin-cross layout and three naves. Much of the 'bunting' (the domes, statues and endless trimmings) came later. The cathedral's artistic and architectural riches fill guidebooks of their own (a worthwhile investment at around €7 if you want to delve into the detail of this amazing building).

The main entrance is via the lavish staircase and facade on the Praza do Obradoiro, but owing to restoration work inside, this is likely to be closed most of the time until 2012. Until then, you will probably enter through the south door on Praza das Praterías (beneath the only facade that conserves its original Romanesque structure).

The baroque Obradoiro facade was erected in the 18th century partly to protect the cathedral's original entrance.

The artistically unparalleled Pórtico de la Gloria (Galician: Porta da Gloria) features 200 Romanesque sculptures by Maestro Mateo, who was placed in charge of the cathedral-building program in the late 12th century by Fernando II of León. You may find the Pórtico partly shrouded in scaffolding until restoration works are completed.

A throned Christ is the main figure in the portico's central archway, as depicted in Revelations, surrounded by the four Evangelists plus angels and symbols of Jesus' passion. In an arc above are the 24 musicians said in the Apocalypse to sit around the heavenly throne. Below Christ's feet is Santiago, and below him Hercules (holding open the mouths of two lions). On the other side of the central pillar is Maestro Mateo. For centuries, tradition called for visitors to bump heads with the maestro to acquire some of his genius. But countless knocks led to Mateo's notably flat nose, and he is now blocked off behind a metal barrier. Another tradition called for a brief prayer as visitors placed their fingers in the five holes above Hercules' head, created by the repetition of this very act by millions of faithful over the centuries. It too is now blocked off.

The remarkably lifelike figures on the right side of the portico are apostles, while those to the left represent Old Testament prophets. The only female statue depicts Queen Esther, the inspiration, according to local lore, for Galicia's iconic tetilla cheese ('titty cheese'). Supposedly, her stone breasts were originally much larger. When local leaders deemed them inappropriate and filed them down, townspeople responded by creating the cone-shaped tetilla cheese in Esther's honour.

Towards the far (west) end of the cathedral's main nave, to the right of the Churrigueresque Altar Mayor (Main Altar), a small staircase leads up, above the altar, to a 13th-century statue of Santiago, which the faithful queue up to embrace. From here you emerge on the left side, then descend some steps to contemplate what you are assured is Santiago's tomb. Behind the Altar Mayor is the Puerta Santa (Holy Door), which opens onto the Praza da Quintana and is cracked open only in holy years (next in 2021).

A special pilgrims' Mass is celebrated at noon daily. Other high-altar Masses take place at 10am, 6pm and (except Sunday) 7.30pm.

For an unforgettable bird's-eye view of the city, take the cathedral rooftop tour, starting in the Pazo de Xelmírez to the left of the cathedral's Obradoiro facade. This is also the only way to visit the Pazo de Xelmírez itself, dating from 1120, where the main banquet hall is adorned with exquisite little wall busts depicting feasters, musicians, kings and jugglers. The tours are popular so it's worth going beforehand to reserve a time slot.