It’s getting a foot in the door here that’s the problem – there can be queues around the square with people trying to get in. And if you want one of the five tables out the back, you’ll need to call ahead. Most people are happy elbowing their way to the bar for some of the tastiest gourmet seafood tapas in town.

Pep recommends cloïsses amb pernil (clams and ham) or the trifàsic (combo of calamari, whitebait and prawns). Its other pièce de résistance is a super smooth tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette) and tuna tartare.