Mediterranean restaurants in Barcelona
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El Racò d’En Freixa
On a quiet residential street deep in the Zona Alta, this hushed designer hideaway offers all sorts of little surprises from one of Spain’s top chefs, Ramon Freixa. Let’s see: what about the Big Duck, a hamburger of duck meat served with bread made of cereals, crystallised red onion and frozen mustard, for a starter? You can follow with one of six seafood options. A coolly elegant place, with clean cream-hued lines and flawless service, it’s little wonder Freixa has a Michelin star and has twice been voted Spain’s chef of the year by the country’s Gourmetour good food guide.
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B
Embat
Enthusiastic young chefs turn out beautifully presented dishes in this basement eatery, whose brown and cream decor might not enchant all comers. You can eat three courses for around €20 to €25 at lunch, indulging perhaps in raviolis de pollo amb bacon i calabassó (chicken ravioli bathed in a sauce of finely chopped bacon, zucchini and other vegetables) followed by melt-in-the-mouth lluç amb pa amb tomàquet, carxofes i maionesa de peres (a thick cut of hake on a tomato-drenched clump of bread dressed with artichoke slices and a pear mayonnaise).
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Noti
Once home to the Noticiero Universal newspaper, Noti has an ample dining room plastered with mirrors that seem to multiply the steely designer tables. Try a peix fresc salvatge de la Boqueria, a la planxa, amb carbassó en ratatouille, mantega muntada de llimona (fresh fish from the Boqueria market with ratatouille of courgette and lemon butter) or perhaps a meat dish – anything from steak tartare to chicken curry. Start the evening with the cocktail of the day at the bar. It has lunch menus from €14 to €24, and an evening set menu at €36.
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El Sortidor
Step back in history. Hot food has been dished up here since 1908. The ceramic-fronted fridge, tiled floor and bar seem to have changed little since then – but appearances can deceive. Turin-born Flavio runs this place, and offers a typical menú del día that isn’t that typical – how many Catalans have eaten handmade pappardelle (a broad ribbon pasta from Italy)? On Friday nights he serves up couscous and live Irish music. And on other nights he’ll only open for a reservation of 20 or more!
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E
Hisop
The hippest entrance on this restaurant-jammed uptown lane definitely belongs to Hisop, an elegant dining option where flavour and service are a priority. Black, white and burgundy dominate the dining room décor. Consider the four-course seasonal tasting menu – you might wind up with a melt-in-your-mouth deer sirloin done in truffle, and for dessert a light chocolate and olive-flavoured ice-cream biscuit with a froth of tofu. The wine list is impressive and service immaculate.
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Cuines de Santa Caterina
With a contemporary feel and open kitchens, this multi-faceted eatery inside the Mercat de Santa Caterina offers all sorts of food. Peck at the sushi bar, tuck into classic rice dishes or go vegetarian. They do some things better than others, so skip the hummus and tarte tatin. A drawback is the speed with which barely finished plates are whisked away from you, but the range of dishes and bustling atmosphere are fun. Reservations aren’t taken, so it’s first come first served.
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Balthazar
Balthazar offers a spacious and buzzy dining atmosphere and an extensive menu of Catalan and Mediterranean dishes, which are good without being spectacular. Locals converge here for stylish, economical dining. After all, where else might you encounter a carpaccio de bou amb encenalls de parmesà (beef carpaccio with parmesan cheese shavings) for €6.60? The menú del día also wins the hearts of savers at €8.70.
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Café de la Princesa
Little of the original 14th-century building remains (the soaring columns and high glass ceiling of the ‘cloister’ are all new) but the location remains unique. Pick your way through bacallà (cod) specialities or perhaps a carré de cabrito glaseado a la miel con setas (rack of honey glazed kid meat with mushrooms). You may be accompanied by a little live music.
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La Balsa
With its grand ceiling and the scented gardens that surround the main terrace dining area, La Balsa is one of the city’s top dining experiences. The menu changes frequently and is a mix of traditional Catalan and off-centre inventiveness. Lounge over a cocktail at the bar before being ushered to your table. The place is famous for its August dinner buffet (around €30).
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Biblioteca
Exposed-brick and creamy-white decor dominate in the 'Library', where the food represents a broad sweep across Spain, with careful creative touches and a good wine list. A good sample is bacallà confitat amb suc d'escamarlans i llegums de temporada (pickled salted cod with crayfish juice and seasonal vegetables).
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K
Tantarantana
This spot is a refreshing contrast. There is something comforting about the old-style marble-top tables, upon which you can sample simple but well-prepared dishes such as risotto or grilled tuna served with vegetables and ginger. It attracts a 30-something crowd who enjoy the outdoor seating in summer.
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Hofmann
What’s cooking here are the trainee chefs, helped along by their instructors. Dishes are generally elegant renditions of classic Mediterranean food, followed by such delicious desserts that some people prefer a starter and two sweets, skipping the main course altogether.
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M
Torre d’Alta Mar
Head up to the top of the Torre de Sant Sebastiá and take a ringside seat for the best views of the city and seafood like the Gall de Sant Pere amb salsa de garotes (John Dory with sea-urchin sauce). The setting alone makes this ideal for impressing a date.
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N
Bar Kasparo
Pull up a stainless-steel pew for terrace dining beneath vaults at this friendly Australian-run place, on the corner of a pleasant square with swings for kids. It does a sturdy line in snacks, mixed salads, filled rolls and hot dishes that change daily.
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