Tapas Bars

The narrow streets and small plazas south of La Seo harbour some great tapas bars - ideal for lunch-time snacking or cooling off with a beer on a warm evening. On the cosy Plaza de Santa Marta, Cervecería Marpy and Casa Vitorinos II have bar-top treats in plenty, while Casa Domino offers hams and montados (toasted baguette slices topped with Cabrales cheese, among other tantalising spreads).

There's another string of tapas bars towards the southern end of Calle Heroísmo (most open until midnight). Still more snacking options cram Calle Moneva, off Calle de Zurita east of Paseo de la Independencia, where El Calamar Bravo churns out the fried squid sandwiches and La Mejillonería goes through buckets of mussels nightly.