Things to do in Málaga
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Beaches
Sandy city beaches stretch several kilometres in each direction from the port. Playa de la Malagueta, handy to the city centre, has some excellent bars and restaurants close by. Playa de Pedregalejo and Playa del Palo, about 4km east of the centre, are popular and reachable by bus 11 from Paseo del Parque.
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Café Moka
Just off Calle Larios, this busy little retro cafe caters to a mainly Spanish crowd. In the mornings, it does brisk breakfast business with savoury-filled soft rolls (molletes), croissants and strong, creamy coffee, starting at around €3.50.
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Málaga's Other Museums
Casa Natal de Picasso,Picasso's birthplace, is a centre for exhibitions (a large collection of Dalí magazine covers was showing at the time of writing) and academic research on contemporary art, with a few compelling items of personal memorabilia and a well-stocked shop. A couple of doors away at Plaza de la Merced 13 you can view temporary art exhibitions . Entrance is free with the Picasso museum combined ticket.
The Centro de Arte Contemporáneo is a coolly minimal museum of international 20th- and 21st-century art housed in a skilfully converted 1930s market. To get here head west on the Alameda Principal from the city centre and turn left when you get to the Río…
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Teatro Cervantes
The handsome art deco Cervantes has a fine program of music, theatre and dance, including some known names on the concert circuit. Rufus Wainwright called it 'the most beautiful theatre in Europe'.
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El Hammam
A most welcome spot in Málaga is the El Hammam, a perfect place to sit back and sweat it out amid the steamy semidarkness to the sound of soothing music. Unlike some Arabic baths in Andalucía, there are no pools to bathe in here, only the steam rooms. Specialist massages, including Ayurvedic and aromatherapy treatments, are by appointment only.
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Guide, Teresa Montero Verdú
For a lively and engaging guided tour of Ronda, contact the bubbly Guide, Teresa Montero Verdú, locally born and full of enthusiastically delivered information.
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Alumbre
Located on pedestrian street flanked by classy bars and restaurants, Alumbre dishes up arty plates of innovative Andalucian-inspired cooking with its roots in traditional 16th-century dishes. Surprises on the menu include snail croquettes, while more conservative palates may prefer the cuttlefish steak.
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Casa Aranda
Casa Aranda is in a narrow alleyway next to the market and, since 1932, has been the place in town to enjoy chocolate and churros (tubular-shaped doughnuts). The cafe has taken over the whole street with several outlets all overseen by a team of mainly elderly white-shirted waiters who welcome everyone like an old friend (most are).
Join the flat-capped men, market-stall sellers, gossiping grandmas and mothers with tots. The chocolate is rich and as thick (and sinful) as double cream. At least you can restrict your churro intake, just one costs €1. Or you can buy to go from cheerful Juan, who prepares the churros in a small and smoky streetside space.
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Casa Lola
Fronted by traditional blue-and-white tiles, this sophisticated spot specialises in vermouth on tap, served ice cold and costing just a couple of euros. Grab a pew on one of the tall stools and peruse the arty decor and clientele; an ideal spot to kickstart your night out on the town.
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Catedral
Málaga’s cathedral was started in the 16th century when several architects set about transforming the original mosque. Of this, only the Patio de los Naranjos survives, a small courtyard of fragrant orange trees where the ablutions fountain used to be. It was an epic project plagued with problems and which took some 200 years to complete.
Inside, it is easy to see why it took so long. The fabulous domed ceiling soars 40m into the air, while the vast colonnaded nave houses an enormous cedar-wood choir. Aisles give access to 15 chapels with gorgeous retables and a stash of 18th-century religious art. Such was the project’s cost that by 1782 it was decided that work would…
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Cooking Holiday Spain
A week’s holiday in Ronda and a fun cookery course.
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El Jardín
Located within confessional distance of the cathedral, this Viennese-style cafe-restaurant has an evocative feel with its lofty columns, ornate furniture and old-fashioned piano with candlesticks. The menu showcases Andalucian cuisine with the speciality being paella. Enjoy live tango and flamenco at weekends.
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El Pilayo
A popular traditionally tiled bar and restaurant, famed for its pescaitos fritos (fried fish) and typical local tapas, including wedges of crumbly Manchego cheese, the ideal accompaniment to a glass of hearty Rioja wine.
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El Tintero
This sprawling, noisy restaurant at the far west end of the beach in El Palo can seat up to 1000 people (so not the place for a romantic dinner for two). There’s no menu, waiters circle the restaurant carrying various seafood dishes and you choose whatever you fancy. The bill is totalled up according to the number and size of the plates on the table at the end of the meal.
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La Moraga Antonio Martín
This is Michelin-star chef Dani Garcia’s second Málaga-based La Moraga (the first is on Calle Fresca in the centre). The concept is based on traditional tapas given the nouvelle treatment – such as cherry gazpacho garnished with fresh cheese, anchovies and basil; king prawns wrapped in fried basil leaves; and mini-burgers created from oxtail.
The dining spaces have a cool contemporary look and overlook the beach, and the wine list is excellent, as is the service.
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La Tetería
Serves heaps of aromatic and classic teas, herbal infusions, coffees and juices, with teas ranging from peppermint to ‘antidepresivo’. Sit outside and marvel at the beautiful church opposite or stay inside to enjoy the wafting incense and background music.
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Málaga University
The university runs an excellent program of Spanish-language courses for foreign students, including one-month intensive courses held from July to September.
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Muelle Uno
Across from the Plaza de la Marina, enjoy a stroll under shaded structures with thickets of palms and children’s playgrounds. Opened in November 2011, the commercial end of the new port is a tad soulless and needs some greenery. It it is designed to cater to the increase in cruise passengers to the city, with restaurants, bars and shops.
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Museo Carmen Thyssen
One of the city’s latest museums opened in 2011 in an aesthetically renovated 16th-century palace in the heart of the city’s historic centre, the former old Moorish quarter of Málaga. The extensive collection concentrates on 19th-century Spanish and Andalucian art and includes paintings by some of the country’s most exceptional painters, including Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida, Ignacio Zuloaga and Francisco de Zurbarán. Temporary exhibitions similarly focus on 19th-century art.
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Museo del Vidrio y Cristal
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Paseo de España
A palm-lined extension of the Alameda, this park was created in the 1890s on land reclaimed from the sea. The garden along its southern side is full of exotic tropical plants, making a pleasant refuge from the bustle of the city. Elderly and young malagueños stroll around and take shelter in the deep shade of the tall palms and on Sundays buskers and entertainers play to the crowds.
On the northern side, the grand Palacio de la Aduana has been aesthetically restored to house the Museo de Málaga (originally housed in the Picasso Museum). The collection includes fine works by great artists such as Francisco de Zurbarán, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, José de Ribera and Pedro…
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Rincon Chinitas
Located on one of Málaga’s most evocative and historic streets (Lorca used to hang out here), this tiny tapas bar dishes up the tastiest berenjenas con miel (fried aubergines with honey) in town. Alternatively, go for that special seafood moment with a plate of gambas (prawns).
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Tapeo de Cervantes
This place has caught on big time which, given its squeeze-in space, can mean a wait. Choose from traditional or more innovative tapas and raciones with delicious combinations and stylish presentation. Think polenta with oyster mushrooms, chorizo and melted cheese or the more conventional tortilla de patatas (potato omelette), spiked with a veg or two. Portions are generous.
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Terra Sana
One of a small local chain that concentrates on healthy international cuisine. There’s a great salad choice, plus wraps, with stuffings like tofu, chicken and jamón serrano (dry aired mountain ham), plus yogurt-based sundaes, Indian-style lassies and Mexican quesadillas. Children are amply catered for with a dedicated menu and the views are great, with the Roman ampitheatre and Alcazaba across the way.
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Vino Mio
This Dutch-owned restaurant has a diverse and interesting menu that includes dishes like kangaroo steaks, vegetable stir-fries, duck breast with sweet chilli, pasta and several innovative salads. Tasty international tapas, like hummus and Roquefort croquettes, are also available to tantalise the tastebuds. The atmosphere is contemporary chic with regular art exhibitions and live music, including flamenco.
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