Sights in Málaga
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Catedral
Preserved rather magnificently, like an unfinished Beethoven symphony, Málaga’s cathedral was begun in the 16th century on the former site of the main mosque and never properly completed. Consequently the building exhibits a mishmash of architectural styles absorbed during more than two centuries of construction. For example, the northern door, Portada de la Iglesia del Sagrario, is Gothic; the interior, with a soaring 40m dome, is Gothic/Renaissance; while the facade is 18th-century baroque. The cathedral is known as La Manquita (the One-Armed), since its southern tower was never completed. Inside, note the 17th-century wooden choir stalls, as dark and smooth as chocolat…
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Museo Picasso Málaga
The hottest attraction on Málaga’s tourist scene is tucked away on a pedestrian street in what was medieval Málaga’s judería. The Museo Picasso Málaga has 204 Picasso works, donated and lent by his daughter-in-law Christine Ruiz-Picasso and grandson Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, and also stages high-quality temporary exhibitions on Picasso themes. The Picasso paintings, drawings, engravings, sculptures and ceramics on show (many never previously on public display) span almost every phase and influence of the artist’s colourful career – blue period, cubism, surrealism and more, with a fascinating emphasis on early, formative works. Gaze at Niña con su muñeca (Girl wi…
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Alcazaba
At the lower, western end of the Gibralfaro hill, the wheelchair-accessible Alcazaba was the palace-fortress of Málaga’s Muslim governors, dating from 1057. The brick path winds uphill, interspersed with arches and stone walls and is refreshingly cool in summer. Roman artefacts and fleeting views of the harbour and city enliven the walk, while honeysuckle, roses and jasmine perfume the air. Go before noon during the hot months, to avoid the crowds as well as the worst of the heat, and watch out for low, unprotected parapets, especially if you are taking kids. A lift (elevator) from Calle Guillén Sotelo brings you out in the heart of the Alcazaba.
Below the Alcazaba is…
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Castillo de Gibralfaro
Above the Alcazaba rises the older Castillo de Gibralfaro, built by Abd ar-Rahman I, the 8th-century Cordoban emir, and rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries. Nothing much remains of the interior of the castle, but the walkway around the ramparts affords exhilarating views and there’s a tiny museum with a military focus.
To walk up to the Castillo, take the road immediately right of the Alcazaba entrance, and where it bends left into a tunnel, take the steps on the right; or take bus 35 from Avenida de Cervantes (roughly every 45 minutes). The walk is long and steeply uphill. There is a small cafe with outdoor seating and toilets at the Castillo.
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Cathedral
Málaga's Cathedral was begun in the 16th century on the former site of the main mosque. Building continued for two centuries, so while the northern door, Portada de la Iglesia del Sagrario, is Gothic, and the interior, with a soaring 40m dome, is Gothic and Renaissance, the facade is 18th-century baroque. The cathedral is known as La Manquita (the One-Armed), since its southern tower was never completed. Inside, note the 17th-century wooden choir stalls, as dark and smooth as chocolate, finely carved by the popular Andalucian sculptor Pedro de Mena.
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Jardín Botánico La Concepción
The largely tropical Jardín Botánico, 4km north of the city centre, features towering trees (including hundreds of palms), 5000 tropical plants, waterfalls, lakes and spectacular seasonal blooms – especially the purple wisteria in spring. You can visit solo or by 1½-hour guided tour in English, costing an extra €2.50.
By car, take the N331 Antequera road north from the Málaga ring road (A7) to Km166 and follow the signs. Alternatively, the Málaga Tour bus runs from the bus station to the gardens.
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Casa Natal de Picasso
Casa Natal de Picasso, Picasso’s birthplace, is a centre for exhibitions and academic research on contemporary art, with a few compelling items of personal memorabilia and a well-stocked shop. A couple of doors away at Plaza de la Merced 13 you can view temporary art exhibitions (a large collection of Dalí magazine covers was showing at the time of research). Entrance is free with the Picasso museum combined ticket.
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Mercado Atarazanas
North of the Alameda, in what's now the commercial district, you will find the neo-Islamic Mercado Atarazanas, entered through its huge horseshoe-shaped arch. The daily market in here is pleasantly noisy and animated and there is a whole host of food on sale. You can choose from swaying legs of ham and rolls of sausages or cheese, fruit, fish and sweets. Nearby are plenty of cafés on pedestrian Calle Herredería del Rey.
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Centro de Arte Contemporáneo
The Centro de Arte Contemporáneo is a coolly minimal museum of international 20th- and 21st-century art housed in a skilfully converted 1930s market. To get here head west on the Alameda Principal from the city centre and turn left when you get to the Río Guadalmedina. The large and diverse museum shop and suitably stark cafe are good stops to complete your visit.
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Baños Árabes
A most welcome activity in Málaga is the Baños Árabes, a perfect place to sit back and sweat it out amid the steamy semidarkness to the sound of soothing music. Unlike some Arabic baths in Andalucía, there are no pools to bathe in here. Book your visit in advance. Specialist massages, including Ayurvedic and aromatherapy treatments, are by appointment only.
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Jardín Botánico
The largely tropical Jardín Botánico Apr-Sep, closed Mon), 4km north of the city centre, feature towering trees (including hundreds of palms), 5000 tropical plants, waterfalls, lakes and spectacular seasonal blooms - especially the purple wisteria in spring. You can visit solo or by 1½-hour guided tour in English, costing an extra €2.50.
reviewed
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Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares
Located in a 17th-century inn, the speciality of Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares is everyday rural and urban life of the past; note the painted clay figures (barros) of characters from Málaga folklore. To get here head west on the Alameda Principal from the city centre and turn right when you get to the Río Guadalmedina.
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Palacio de la Aduana
The Palacio de la Aduana is set to become the permanent home of the city’s museum, but not until 2012. Art exhibitions have been suspended, but meanwhile you can marvel at one of Andalucía’s largest and most magnificent patios, and take shelter from the sun under glossy, broad-leafed plants.
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Palacio Episcopal
In front of the cathedral spreads the sumptuous Plaza del Obispo, where the blood-red Bishop's Palace, the Palacio Episcopal, now forms an exhibition space. The square provided an atmospheric set for Inquisition burnings in the filming of The Bridge of San Luis Rey, starring Robert de Niro.
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Alameda Principal
The Alameda Principal, now a busy thoroughfare, was created in the late 18th century as a boulevard on what were then the sands of the Guadalmedina estuary. It's adorned with old trees from the Americas and lined with 18th- and 19th-century buildings.
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Plaza de Toros
Take a walk along Playa de la Malagueta before visiting the museum of the Plaza de Toros, the busiest bullring on the coast. The museum is OK if you want to see some stuff on bullfighting, but the museum in Ronda is much better.
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Casa Natal de Picasso
Casa Natal de Picasso, Picasso's birthplace, is a centre for exhibitions and academic research on contemporary art, with a few compelling items of personal memorabilia and a well-stocked shop.
reviewed
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Playa de la Malagueta beach
Playa de la Malagueta beach is a sandy city beach that is handy to the city centre, has some excellent bars and restaurants close by, and stretches several kilometres from the port.
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Playa de Pedregalejo beach
Playa de Pedregalejo beach is a popular sandy city beach. Catch bus 11 from Paseo del Parque.
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Playa del Palo beach
Playa del Palo beach is a popular beach and reachable by bus 11 from Paseo del Parque.
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Baños Árabes
A most welcome spot in Málaga is the Baños Árabes, a perfect place to sit back and sweat it out amid the steamy semidarkness to the sound of soothing music. Unlike some Arabic baths in Andalucía, there are no pools to bathe in here, only the steam rooms. Book your visit in advance. Specialist massages, including ayurvedic and aromatherapy treatments, are by appointment only.
reviewed
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Málaga's Other Museums
Casa Natal de Picasso,Picasso's birthplace, is a centre for exhibitions (a large collection of Dalí magazine covers was showing at the time of writing) and academic research on contemporary art, with a few compelling items of personal memorabilia and a well-stocked shop. A couple of doors away at Plaza de la Merced 13 you can view temporary art exhibitions . Entrance is free with the Picasso museum combined ticket.
The Centro de Arte Contemporáneo is a coolly minimal museum of international 20th- and 21st-century art housed in a skilfully converted 1930s market. To get here head west on the Alameda Principal from the city centre and turn left when you get to the Río Guad…
reviewed
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Beaches
Sandy city beaches stretch several kilometres in each direction from the port. Playa de la Malagueta, handy to the city centre, has some excellent bars and restaurants close by. Playa de Pedregalejo and Playa del Palo, about 4km east of the centre, are popular and reachable by bus 11 from Paseo del Parque.
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