Sights in Córdoba
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Mezquita
Founded in 785, Córdoba’s gigantic mosque is an architectural hybrid that has experienced two big ‘modern’ changes: a 16th-century cathedral plonked right in the middle; and the closing of 19 once-important doorways, which would have filled the original Mezquita with light.
The main entrance is the Puerta del Perdón, a 14th-century Mudéjar gateway on Calle Cardenal Herrero, with the ticket office immediately inside. Beside the Puerta del Perdón is a 16th- and 17th- century tower built around the remains of the Mezquita’s minaret. Inside the gateway is the aptly named Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Orange Trees), originally the mosque’s ablutions courtyard,…
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The Cathedral
For three centuries following the Reconquista (Reconquest) in 1236, the Mezquita remained largely unaltered save for minor modifications such as the Mudejar tiling added in the 1370s to the Mozarabic and Almohad Capilla Real (located nine bays north and one east of the mihrab, and now part of the cathedral).
In the 16th century King Carlos I gave permission (against the wishes of Córdoba's city council) for the centre of the Mezquita to be ripped out to allow construction of the Capilla Mayor (the altar area in the cathedral) and coro (choir).However, the king was not enamoured with the results and famously regretted: 'You have built what you or others might have built …
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Patios
For centuries, Córdoba's beautiful leafy patios have provided shade during the searing heat of summer, a haven of peace and quiet, and a place to talk and entertain. They probably originated with the Romans, and the tradition was continued by the Arabs, with the happy addition of a central fountain.
In the first half of May, you'll notice 'Patio' signs in Córdoba's streets and alleys; this means that you're invited to view what is for the rest of the year hidden behind heavy wooden doors or wrought-iron gates. At this time of year, when new blooms proliferate, the patios are at their prettiest. Many patios participate in the annual Concurso de Patios Cordobéses, a compet…
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Medina Azahara
Even in the cicada-shrill heat and stillness of a summer afternoon, the Medina Azahara whispers of the power and vision of its founder, Abd ar-Rahman III. The self-proclaimed caliph began the construction of a magnificent new capital 8km west of Córdoba around 936, and took up full residence around 945. Medina Azahara was a resounding declaration of his status, a magnificent trapping of power.
The visitor route leads down to the Dar al-Wuzara (House of the Viziers), a substantial building with several horseshoe arches, fronted by a square garden, and on to the most impressive building, the painstakingly restored Salón de Abd ar-Rahman III, the caliph’s throne hall, with …
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Plaza de la Corredera
North of Plaza del Potro is the grand 17th-century Plaza de la Corredera, a square with an elaborate history of public entertainment and gory showbiz. This was the site of Córdoba's Roman amphitheatre (where, no doubt, gladiator blood was spilled), and the location for horse races, violent bullfights and horrific Inquisition burnings.
Thankfully, all of that is in the past, and nowadays the extensively restored square hosts tame rock concerts and other events (ask at the tourist office for details). A daily fruit market is held here and on Saturday there's a lively flea market selling stuff like secondhand clothes, household items and bric-a-brac.
A daily fruit market is …
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The Mihrab & Maksura
Like Abd ar-Rahman II a century earlier, Al-Hakim lengthened the naves of the prayer hall, creating a new mihrab at the south end of the central nave. The bay immediately in front of the mihrab and the bays to each side form the maksura, the area where the caliphs and their retinues would have prayed (now enclosed by railings).
Inside the mihrab a single block of white marble was sculpted into the shape of a scallop shell, a symbol of the Quran. This formed the dome that amplified the voice of the imam throughout the mosque. The art of the Cordoban caliphate can be seen to have reached maturity here, and many of the intricate decorative effects were carried over into Abd …
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Concurso de Patios Cordobeses
In the first half of May you'll notice 'patio' signs in the streets and alleyways, which means that you're invited to enter and view what are for the rest of the year closed to the outside world. At this time of year the patios are at their prettiest, and many are entered in an annual competition, the Concurso de Patios Cordobeses.
A map of patios open for viewing is available from the tourist office. Some of the best patios are on and around Calle San Basilio, about 400m southwest of the Mezquita. During the competition, the patios are generally open from 17:00 to 24:00 Monday to Friday, and 12:00 to 24:00 Saturday and Sunday. Admission is usually free but sometimes ther…
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The Patio de los Naranjos & Minaret
The Patio de los Naranjos & Minaret Outside the mosque, the leafy, walled courtyard and its fountain were the site of ritual ablutions before prayer, while the arcaded walls would have seen much of the ancient city's hustle and bustle. The crowning glory of the whole complex was the minaret, which at its peak towered 48m (only 22m of the minaret still survives) and allowed the call to prayer to echo over the city.
Now encased in its 16th-century shell, the original minaret would have looked something like the Giralda in Seville, which was practically a copy. In fact, Córdoba's minaret influenced all the minarets built thereafter throughout the western Islamic world.
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Casa de Sefarad
In the heart of the judería, and once connected by an underground tunnel to the Sinagoga, is the 14th-century Casa de Sefarad. Opened in 2008 on the corner of Calles de los Judíos and Averroes, this small, beautiful museum is devoted to reviving interest in the Sephardic-Judaic-Spanish tradition. There is a refreshing focus on music, domestic traditions and on the women intellectuals (poets, singers and thinkers) of Al-Andalus. A specialist library of Sephardic history is housed here, and there’s also a well-stocked shop. A program of live music recitals and storytelling events runs most of the year.
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Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
Just southwest of the Mezquita, the Alcázar, or Castle of the Christian Monarchs, began as a palace and fort for Alfonso X in the 13th century. From 1490 to 1821 the Inquisition operated from here. Today the castle’s gardens are among the most beautiful in Andalucía. The building houses an old royal bathhouse, the Baños Califales. Take time to gaze at the 3rd-century Roman sarcophagus, with its reflections on life and death.
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Judería
Jews were among the most dynamic and prominent citizens of Islamic Córdoba. The medieval judería, extending northwest from the Mezquita almost to Avenida del Gran Capitán, is today a maze of narrow streets and whitewashed buildings with flowery window boxes.
The beautiful little 14th-century Sinagoga is one of only three surviving medieval synagogues in Spain and the only one in Andalucía. In the late 1400s it became a hospital for hydrophobics. Translated Hebrew inscriptions eroded in mid-sentence seem like poignant echoes of a silenced society. The Casa Andalusí is a 12th-century house furnished with objects from Córdoba's medieval Islamic culture and a Roman mosaic…
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Castle of the Christian Monarchs
The Castle of the Christian Monarchs began as a palace and fort for Alfonso X in the 13th century. From 1490 to 1821 the Inquisition operated from here. Today its gardens are among the most beautiful in Andalucía. The building houses an old royal bathhouse, the Baños Califales. Take time to gaze at the third century Roman sarcophagus, with its reflections on life and death.
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Palacio Episcopal
Opposite the Mezquita and next door to the regional tourist office is the Palacio Episcopal, now a conference centre but originally the old Hospital of San Sebastian. A lovely Isabelline-style villa with an internal patio, the palace stages exhibitions, often of regional pottery, to which admission is free if you have a Mezquita ticket. It also houses the Museo Diocesano
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Sinagoga
The beautiful little 14th-century Sinagoga is one of only three surviving medieval synagogues in Spain and the only one in Andalucía. In the late 1400s it became a hospital for hydrophobics. Translated Hebrew inscriptions eroded in mid-sentence seem like poignant echoes of a silenced society.
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Museo Julio Romero de Torres
A former hospital houses what is, surprisingly enough, Córdoba’s most visited museum, the Museo Julio Romero de Torres, devoted to revered local painter Julio Romero de Torres (1873–1930). Romero de Torres specialised in sensual yet sympathetic portraits of Cordoban women.
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Palacio de Viana
Córdoba is famous for its patios and nowhere are they better exhibited than in this Renaissance palace with a dozen tranquil courtyards, a formal garden and a gilded house (with guided tours). It’s 500m north of the Plaza de la Corredera. Opening times are extended in July and August.
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Mezquita Mosque
It's hard to exaggerate the beauty of the Córdoba mosque, one of the great creations of Islamic architecture, with its shimmering golden mosaics and rows of red-and-white-striped arches disappearing into infinity.
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Archaeological Museum
Córdoba's excellent archaeological museum, provides a real insight into pre-Islamic Córdoba in the suitably historic setting of a Renaissance palace. The upstairs is devoted to medieval Córdoba.
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Museo Diocesano
The Palacio Episcopal also houses the Museo Diocesano, which has a collection of religious art. The best of this art is some outstanding medieval woodcarving, including the 13th-century Virgen de las Huertas.
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Posada del Potro
Miguel de Cervantes lived for a while in the Posada del Potro, then an inn (which he described in Don Quijote as a ‘den of thieves’) and today a more respectable exhibition hall.
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Museo Arqueológico
Córdoba’s excellent archaeological museum provides a real insight into pre-Islamic Córdoba in the suitably historic setting of a Renaissance palace. The upstairs is devoted to medieval Córdoba.
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Museo de Bellas Artes
In the same building as the Museo Julio Romero de Torres is the Museo de Bellas Artes, which exhibits Cordoban artists’ work from the 14th to the 20th century.
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Puente Romano
Just south of the Mezquita, the much-restored Puente Romano crosses the Guadalquivir. Just downstream, near the northern bank, is a restored Islamic water wheel.
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Torre de la Calahorra
A14th-century tower with the curious Roger Garaudy Museum of the Three Cultures highlighting the intellectual achievements of Islamic Córdoba.
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Casa Andalusí
The Casa Andalusí is a 12th-century house furnished with objects from Córdoba’s medieval Islamic culture and a Roman mosaic.
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