Things to do in South Korea
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Nanta Theatre
Set in a kitchen, this long-running, high-octane show mixes varied ingredients – magic tricks, circus acts, drumming with kitchen utensils, comedy, dance, martial arts and audience participation – to produce a clever and entertaining musical pantomime that has broken box office records.
reviewed
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B
Castle Praha
Hidden away down an alley is the most extraordinary facade in Seoul, with an equally bizarre dungeon-cum-cellar interior for the vintage restaurant, the homebrew bar, the bakery and café. Step inside this medieval fantasy for a limited but reasonably priced selection of European food.
reviewed
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Itaewonland Sauna
This luxurious jjimjilbang, (Korean Sauna) spread over five floors, is the best in Itaewon. With separate sections for men and women, every customer is loaned a towel and T-shirt. A long list of pools, spa baths and massages is available including a green-tea beauty treatment.
reviewed
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C
Agio
Sit outside in the spacious courtyard under shady trees or inside this charming Italian restaurant that serves mainly organic salads and pastas, but specialises in large, thin-crust pizzas, freshly made in a wood-fired oven and served on a wooden platter. Drinkable house wine is W5500.
reviewed
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D
Reggae Pub
Reggae rhythms on the sound system are the main attraction at this Jamaican outpost, but there is pool and darts. Jamaican-style wings, curry and hamburgers are on the menu, and a dance area with disco ball lighting gives the pub a clubby atmosphere as the night progresses on weekends.
reviewed
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E
Gwangjang Market
This rabbit warren of a market has been frozen in time: everything is still traditional and unmodernised. Look out for the food stalls with workers grinding mung beans – they sell crispy, thick bindaetteok (mung-bean pancake) for W4000 that are big enough to be shared by two.
reviewed
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F
Tobang Duck Restaurant
A pile of delicious sliced smoked duck is kept warm over a small cauldron of steaming water that cooks the chives and sesame leaves that accompany the meat. Two dipping sauces are provided, one mustard and the other a delicious local concoction. Order noodles afterwards if required.
reviewed
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G
Shinsegae department store
Brand-name outlets rub shoulders here in a gleaming, luxury ambience. There's a Starbucks, the favourite haunt of doenjangnyeo (a derogatory term for young women who only care about style and fashion). Next to it is an art gallery (admission free) with changing exhibitions.
reviewed
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H
3 Alley Pub
Mixing together a friendly pub atmosphere (darts, pool, cheap chicken wings on Tuesdays, a trivia quiz on Wednesdays) with top-notch European-style pub grub (mains W15,000) and nine draught beers is a formula that makes this place an expat magnet, especially with the older crowd.
reviewed
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Heosimcheong Spa
Reportedly the largest hot spa in Asia, Heosimcheong is packed with soaking tubs and saunas on the 4th floor, with a capacity of 2000 people. Massages are available for an additional fee. Guests are welcome to stay as long as they like and take a break in the 3rd floor snack bar.
reviewed
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Dynasty Tailor
Dynasty has a good reputation, and its suits are all handmade in the traditional way by expert tailors just a few doors down from the shop. Ask to see the workshop to learn about how the suits are made. Pure wool suits cost W250,000 to W300,000 and take about three days to make.
reviewed
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Hyundai department store
Experience the country's department-store culture of saturating the floor with sales assistants and free food samples. All stores have ready-to-eat food and some Western goods. Hyundai department store is slightly down-market compared to Lotte, which usually means lower prices.
reviewed
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K
Crown Bakery
Many bakeries have turned themselves into cafés by installing a coffee machine and providing a few tables and chairs. Baking is done inside the shop, which also sells the creamy-tasting Korean speciality ‘ice candy’, a round ice lolly on a round stick (W800).
reviewed
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L
Yero
Down an alley off Art Street is this very informal ssambap restaurant made up of three rooms in the owner's house. It's all very rustic and untidy but people come for the food - lots of wraps and side dishes - and Yero is as near to Korean home cooking as you can get.
reviewed
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M
Jongno Bindaetteok
Don’t let the scruffy and dingy decor put you off – the freshly made gourmet bindaetteok is crispy and golden and bursting with seafood (haemul) or meat (gogi). It goes perfectly with a glass or two or three of makgeolli.
reviewed
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Trance
Pouting drag princesses Ms Nina and Ms Nang entertain in their own utterly unique style at this small gay club with a DJ and a stage. The shows don’t begin until 2.30am on Friday and Saturday nights. Otherwise this red-and-black dance club serves up mixed dance music.
reviewed
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O
Dongdaemun
Seoul’s eastern fortress gate dates back to the 14th century, but the existing structure was built in 1869 and had to be renovated after being severely damaged during the Korean War when Seoul changed hands four times. Dongdaemun Market starts at this gate.
reviewed
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P
Soma 1095
If your Korean language skills are a little scratchy, the colour photos of the 40 well-presented meals available here will help you to choose what to eat, in this clean and busy budget eatery. Just remember to say maisseosseoyo ('it was delicious') when your done.
reviewed
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Q
Chuncheonjip
This large and cheerful restaurant with music and paper lanterns never closes. Try its hot and spicy fusion dakgalbi with cheese and sweet potatoes or noodles, cooked at your table. Serve yourself side dishes from a buffet – a great idea that reduces waste.
reviewed
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R
Sosim
A small, rustic, home-cooking basement restaurant that serves mainly vegetables, including many types of mushrooms, in varied sauces. Fish is added for non-vegetarians. The W20,000 set course is the best meal, but is overpriced. The helpful owner speaks some English.
reviewed
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YBM Sisa
Korean classes (maximum size 10) for all ability levels cover grammar, writing and conversation. Ten-day courses (W115,000) are held in the evening, 20-day courses are held during the day. Lessons last just under two hours, and courses start at the beginning of each month.
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T
Juju Tent Bar
Particularly popular in summer, this outdoor bar near Apgujeong has a retractable roof and is open all year round. Beer and soju are W4000 but the trad food, chicken gizzards, chicken feet, grilled eel, stews and fish, is more expensive (meals W12,000 to W20,000).
reviewed
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U
Macondo
Free dancing lessons are a daily attraction at this other long-lasting Latin American dance club where you can show off those salsa, merengue and bachata moves. It’s at the other end of Hongdae from most of the clubs. Drunks aren’t welcome.
reviewed
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Giant Step Jazz Bar
The Giant Step is a jazz bar with all the trappings you'd expect in an upscale joint, like burgundy wood, black-and-white photos and a good supply of recordings. Live 30-minute sets on stage Wednesday to Saturday (21:00, 22:00 and 23:00). Located near Gwang·an beach.
reviewed
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Jeju-Si Seafront
Hotels, motels, restaurants and fast-food outlets are strung along the seafront, but there is no beach. It can be lively in the evenings at the eastern end where you can hire skates and Rollerblade along the promenade or shoot some hoops on the outdoor basketball courts.
reviewed