One of Seoul’s great pleasures is sampling the varied and – to international travellers – generally unfamiliar delights of Korean cuisine. Restaurants, cafes and street stalls are scattered throughout every neighbourhood – from small, unpretentious joints serving up healthy rice and vegetable dishes or DIY beef or pork barbecue, to the overflowing abundance and delicacy of a royal banquet. Whether tucking into the snacks of commoners or the cuisine of kings, you just can’t lose. Savouring a multicourse banquet (hanjeongsik) is a feast as much for the eyes as the tummy, as are the creations of chefs crafting neo-Korean dishes. Equally satisfying is scoffing down piping-hot crispy hotteok (pancakes with sweet or savoury fillings) on a street corner, or delicious, fresh and fiery crab soup in Noryangjin Fish Market. Also don’t miss sampling cakes and sipping beverages in charming teahouses: this is where the soul of Seoul lies.