Religious, Spiritual sights in Seoul
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A
Jogyesa
Within the grounds of this temple is Daeungjeon, the largest Buddhist shrine in Seoul. It was built in 1938, but the design followed the late-Joseon-dynasty style. Murals of scenes from Buddha’s life and the carved floral latticework doors are two of its attractive features. Inside are three giant Buddha statues : on the left is Amitabha, Buddha of the Western Paradise; in the centre is the historical Buddha, who lived in India and achieved enlightenment; on the right is the Bhaisaiya or Medicine Buddha, with a medicine bowl in his hand. The small 15th-century Buddha in the glass case was the main Buddha statue before he was replaced by the much larger ones in 2006. On th…
reviewed
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B
Bongeunsa
Just north of the COEX Mall and Convention Centre, the shrines and halls of this Buddhist temple are spread among a forested hillside and have a quieter, more secluded atmosphere than Insadong’s Jogyesa. Founded in AD 794, the buildings have been rebuilt many times over the centuries. Entry to the temple is through Jinyeomun (Gate of Truth), protected by four fierce guardians. On the right is a charity shop, Beautiful Store (open 10.30am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday). On the left is a small hut where an English-speaking volunteer guide is usually available. Make an effort to visit on Thursday because from 2pm to 4pm, monks and volunteers offer a temple program in English that…
reviewed
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C
Cheondogyo Temple
The architectural fusion of East and West in this superb temple building echoes the East-West fusions of Cheondogyo’s idealistic philosophy. Designed by a Japanese architect and constructed in 1921, this is a handsome baroque-style, red-brick and stone temple with a tower. Inside, the wood panelling, lines of chairs and plain decoration create an impression of a lecture theatre, although there are stained-glass windows. A pamphlet on this indigenous religion, known as the Heavenly Way, is available in English. It’s members were key figures in the Donghak rebellion and the independence movements opposed to Japanese rule. The founder, Great Master Suun (1824–64), was execut…
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D
Yeouido Full Gospel Church
The Full Gospel Church was founded by Assembly of God pastor David Cho in 1958, and the existing church building was opened in 1973. Visit on a Sunday to experience 15,000 people, young and old, crowded into this circular, cathedral-sized church, with thousands more overflowing into the side chapels. Everything is mega – huge screens by the altar show TV-news-style programs about the church; it takes five minutes for the 150-member choir and the orchestra to file in; and hundreds of coaches are parked outside to bring the faithful to prayer. Ask one of the white-coat-wearing ushers for directions to the foreigners’ section, where headphones provide a translation of the se…
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E
Seonnongdan
The altar is not worth visiting except for one day in April (which varies with the lunar calendar) : the re-enactment of the ceremony when Joseon kings came here to pray for a good harvest. A royal procession heads to the altar, where food offerings are laid out in special brass containers. Musicians in red robes play traditional instruments, and after the Confucian ceremony the onlookers tuck into seolleongtang (beef soup) and makgeolli (fermented rice wine) free of charge, just as in Joseon days. From the subway exit, walk straight as far as the notice board and turn right. When you come to a fork, go right. The altar is a 300m walk on the right.
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F
Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral
This elegant, red- and grey-brick Gothic-style cathedral was built between 1894 and ’98 by Chinese bricklayers. Inside, the traditional vaulted ceiling and stained-glass windows contrast with the modern air-conditioning and the TV screens. The cathedral provided a sanctuary for student and trade-union protestors during the long period of military rule after the Korean War, and is now a national symbol of democracy and human rights. Come at 9am on Sunday for English-language worship in the chapel.
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Tapgol Park
Opened in 1897, Tapgol is a symbol of Korean resistance to Japanese rule. On 1 March 1919, Son Byeong-hui and 32 others signed and read aloud a Declaration of Independence (a copy in English can be read on the memorial plaque). Many of them were high-school teachers, 16 were Cheondogyo followers, 15 were Protestant Christians and two, including poet-monk Young-un, were Buddhists. All were arrested and locked up in the notorious Seodaemun Prison. A torrent of protest against Japan followed in Seoul and throughout Korea, but the samil (1 March) movement was ruthlessly suppressed. Hundreds of independence fighters were killed and thousands arrested. In the park, 10 murals de…
reviewed
