Deoksugung

Originally an aristocratic villa, Deoksugung became a palace in 1593 when King Seonjo moved in after all of Seoul’s other palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion. Despite two kings being crowned here, it became a secondary palace from 1615 until 1897 when King Gojong moved in after leaving the nearby Russian legation.

Although he was forced by the Japanese to abdicate 10 years later, Gojong carried on living here in some style until he died in 1919. His son, Sunjong, reigned as a puppet emperor until 1910 when he too was forced to abdicate by the Japanese, who then annexed Korea, bringing the Joseon dynasty to an undignified and abrupt end after more than 500 years.

The palace used to be three times as big as it is now, but it still contains small gardens and ponds amid an extraordinary potpourri of contrasting architectural styles. Behind a grand wooden audience hall in traditional Korean style is a fusion-style tea pavilion Heonggwanheon designed by a Russian architect. The tea pavilion has pillars, a veranda and metal railings decorated with deer and bats – both auspicious creatures. This is where King Gojong drank the soothing beverage while discussing current affairs and poetry with his visitors.

The stone mythical creatures in the main courtyard are haetae, which are supposed to protect the palace from fire, but in 1904 they must have fallen asleep – the palace burnt down.

King Gojong’s living quarters, Hamnyeongjeon, was where he died in 1919, an event which sparked off nationwide protests against Japanese rule.

The earlier of the two Romanesque buildings is Seokjojeon (built between 1900 and 1909 and designed by a British archi­tect), which now houses art and craft exhibitions (usually free admission). The other one (designed by a Japanese architect and built in the late 1930s) houses the Deoksugung Museum of Art. With four large galleries on two levels, the exhibitions include major international art shows.

The changing of the guards (10.30am, 2pm & 3pm Tue-Sun 15 Feb-31 Dec) is an impressive ceremony involving 50 participants, who dress up as Joseon-era soldiers and bandsmen. Free guided tours of the palace (in English) take place at 10.30am on weekdays and at 1.40pm at the weekend. The ticket office is at the southwest corner of the palace.