Introducing Heuksando
Heuksando, on the way to Hongdo, is the larger, more populated and more accessible of the two islands. Views from its peaks show why Dadohae Haesang means ‘marine archipelago’. Fishing villages are linked by trails, but walking around the island would take around nine hours. Fortunately, local buses circle most of the island – a recommended trip is up the peak Bonghwadae, on the north coast hill, Sangnasan.
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The largest village, Yeri, formerly a whaling centre, is where ferries dock. With sufficient demand, tourist boats will take you around the island (W13,000, two hours). The island’s other major village is Jinni.
Gecheonjang (275 9154; Yeri; r W30,000; ), a stone-fronted yeogwan by the post office, has bright yet rustic rooms with views of the harbour. Rates from September to June are W25, 000. Daedo Minbak (275 9340; Yeri; d W25,000; ), with just a few rooms, is pleasant and unpretentious.
Seafood restaurants are plentiful but prices can be steep. The speciality is hung·eo ; ray, usually served raw.
Last updated: Nov 25, 2008
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