Things to do in Gyeongsangnam Do
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Seokbulsa Temple
Hard to find but a wonder to behold, Seokbulsa Temple is a hermitage carved into rock. Massive boulders stretching 40m in height jut out from the mountainside to form a U-shaped enclave with three rock facings that is now a place of worship. Inside the enclave enormous Buddhist images have been meticulously etched into stone. Visually powerful in scale and impact, it's the kind of work that moves first-time visitors to exclaim 'Wow' as they step back and arch their necks to get the full picture.
Quietly walk past the women bowing on the shoes-off platform and step into the small caves for a close-up look at the Buddha glowing in soft candlelight.Getting to Seokbulsa is a …
reviewed
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Fuzzy Navel
Gwang·an's interesting bars are located on the busy beachfront road and the small lane one block behind the drag. Most of the stimulating places are beside or behind the funky Fuzzy Navel where the recipe for this delicious drink is simple: take one shack and decorate liberally with California beach-bum graffiti. Add Plexiglas windows and presto, one of the city's most interesting concoctions.
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Busan Tower
In the centre of the humble Yongdusan Park stands the 118m Busan Tower. If the haze is not too thick, daytime views of container-ship traffic in the harbour provide a sense of the port's scale of operations. Other things to do: buy corn from a kiosk, watch pigeons swoop for food.
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Geumjeong Mountain
Travellers climbing Geumjeongsan - Geumjeong Mountain - expecting to see a fort will be disappointed because there isn't one. Geumjeong Fortress (금정산성) is a long stone wall with four gates serving as expensive trail markers. Not all is lost because this is where you'll find some of the city's best hiking. Outdoor enthusiasts seeking an intimate experience with nature should avoid the mountain on holidays and weekend mornings - peak times for maddening crowds of fashionable hikers.
The journey to Geumjeong Mountain is as good as the destination. Most hikers start at the north end of the trail that begins with a mildly steep climb along the left side of Beomeosa tem…
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Millak Town Raw Fish Centre
This collection of raw-fish shops provides a rustic dining experience. Located at the northeast end of Gwang·an beach, purchase a fish for around and walk upstairs to eat; the woman selling you the fish will indicate which floor. Inside the seating area, your fish will be prepared and served for a per person fee.
Raw fish is called hoe (회; sounds similar to 'when' without the 'n'). A typical raw-fish dinner starts with a small banquet of appetisers including raw baby octopus still wiggling on the plate. A platter of thinly sliced raw fish without rice is the main course. Fish is dipped into a saucer of chogochujang (초고추장), a watery red-pepper sauce, or a dish of soy sa…
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Beomeosa Temple
A magnificent Buddhist temple, Beomeosa is perhaps the best sight in Busan. Founded in AD 678, all of the original buildings have been rebuilt at some point during Korea's history of invasions. Despite its city location, Beomeosa is a world away from the urban jungle, with beautiful architecture neatly set against an extraordinary mountain setting.
The temple was founded in AD 678 by priest and Buddhist scholar Uisang during the reign of King Munmu, one of the most enlightened rulers of the Silla dynasty.
Much of the original temple was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592-93, but not before priest Seosan had defeated a Japanese army here.
It's a busy place, as …
reviewed
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Pungmi Chueotang
This scruffy-looking restaurant draws people from great distances for the chueotang (추어탕; loach soup). Made from ground loach and leafy cabbage, the dark green soup has a mild taste. If it's too mild, dip into the plastic tubs of seasoning, which includes sancho (산초), a brown spice that adds a rich, earthy flavour when used sparingly.
With a self-serve counter of unlimited side dishes like baked fish and seaweed, it's an outstanding meal and one of the city's best deals. Getting here is not easy, though. Take a taxi from Seomyeon or Sports Complex station, Exit 11, and go to the main gate of Children's Park. Walk along the road to the right of the park entrance…
reviewed
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Gwang·an
Among the city's seven beaches, Gwang·an is the best option for access and quality (the other beaches are Dadaepo, Songdo, Songjeong, Ilgwang, Imnang and Pebble Beach). Although the ugly wall of commercial development behind the beach diminishes the daytime experience, Gwang·an really shines at night. The multicoloured light show illuminating the bridge is grand. The shortest route to Gwang·an is Line 2 to Geumnyeonsan station, Exit 3. Rotate 180 degrees at street level and turn right at the corner; the beach is five minutes down the road.
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Beomtae Sonjjajang
Here's a sterling example of a successful restaurant owner who won't update, modernise or even clean up the shop interior. According to superstition, the good fortune a successful shop enjoys could be lost if the interior were changed. Consequently, some shoddy-looking restaurants, like this one, serve great food. The jjambbong (짬뽕; spicy seafood soup), gunmandu (군만두; fried mandu) and tangsuyuk (탕수육; sweet-and-sour fried pork) are all excellent.
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Vesta Spa & Jjimjilbang
You can't really experience Korea unless you've been to a public bath. Vesta Spa & Jjimjilbang can't compare with Hurshimchung in terms of size. It does however have a cosy atmosphere with an attractive interior design that relies heavily on wood and flagstone. What's the coolest feature of this must-try facility? The outdoor balcony where guests can stand in the buff overlooking the sea. Located on Dalmaji Hill, an around ₩3000 taxi from Hae·undae beach is the only practical way to get here.
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Podo Cheong
It's not the best sutbul galbi (숯불갈비; charcoal-fired barbecue) restaurant but it is very good. The main draw of this busy restaurant is the backyard barbecue feel in the outdoor patio. Lean moksal (목살; pork chop) tastes great though most Koreans choose samgyeopsal (삼겹살; bacon). Unless you're hoping to accelerate the likelihood of a heart attack, avoid this cut, which is essentially a slab of fat with a hint of pork.
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Geumsu Bokguk
Do you remember the Simpson's episode when Homer ate blowfish and was told he had 24 hours to live? This restaurant serves that fish. A worthwhile restaurant for anyone who wants to experience a seafood delicacy and earn bragging rights: I ate poisonous fish and survived. Stay on the 1st floor for relatively inexpensive dishes. Head upstairs and join the Japanese tourists who have a strong yen for the pricey sets. Located on a small lane across the street from the Paradise Hotel in Hae·undae.
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Jagalchi Fish Market
Anyone with a love of seafood, and a tolerance for powerful fish odours, could easily spend a couple of hours exploring the country's largest fish market. Waterfront warehouses, tiny shops and elderly women perched on street corners process and sell an incredible variety of seafood, which unfortunately includes whale meat.
Walk along the pier and you may be approached by sea-weathered sailors offering a 20-minute boat tour of the harbour; if interested, bargain down from the asking price.
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Noran Mahura
It's a tent restaurant on Cheongsapo (청사포), an out-of-the-way harbour where people come for a drink to watch the sunset and unexpectedly stay for the sunrise. The harbour road is packed with tent restaurants so if this one happens to be busy, walk along the pier to find another. Snacks include garibi (가리비), grilled clams with a salsalike sauce that tastes great. It tastes even better with soju at sunrise.
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Starface
Everything a fun neighbourhood pub needs is here: decent bar selection, regular specials and the occasional brawl. Friday night is all-you-can-drink for around ₩150 (some limitations). Located on Dalmaji Hill, an around ₩3000 taxi from Hae·undae is the only practical way to get here. Not many drivers are familiar with Starface but they all know 김성종 추리문학관, the next-door bookstore.
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Barony Brahaus
Formerly known as Dojima, it's Busan's first microbrewery and a popular after-work watering hole for the upwardly mobile crowd. With a 550cc mug starting at around ₩5000 it's easy to run up a substantial tab quickly. That's why prudent drinkers drop around ₩16,000 on the all-you-can-eat-and-drink option; gorge and binge daily from 18:00 to 22:00. Located on a small lane one block behind Lotte Department Store.
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Hae·undae
Hae·undae is the country's most famous beach. During the peak travel season in August, umbrellas mushroom across the 2km beach while frolickers fill the water with truck-size inner tubes rented from booths behind the beach. It's a fun family outing with 500,000 friends, though the marketing bumph portraying Hae·undae as a world-class resort is bunk. Line 2 to Hae·undae station, Exit 3, and walk to the beach.
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Grandmother Lee's Raw Fish House
Stop by for raw fish and you might end up partying until sunrise. It's a small restaurant with ground-floor fish tanks and space for groups upstairs. The affable Mr. Lee speaks English well and takes the time to explain the features of each fish. Walk to the eastern end of Hae·undae beach, turn left at the first street past the Mipo ferry terminal and then a quick right turn. It's the first restaurant on your right.
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Haryu
If you don't need to pick a fish, walk up to the 2nd floor of the Millak town raw fish centre to a restaurant run by the English-speaking owner, Mr Jeon. Line 2 to Gwang·an station, Exit 5. At the top of the stairs, turn 180 degrees and then right at the first street. Walk 600m and turn left at the beach. The raw fish centre is the large brown building 300m down the road.
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Gupo Market
A large selection of clothing, pungent Korean food and butcher shops specialising in fowl and dog meat. Whatever one's take on the ancient practice of using man's best friend for human nourishment, images of an eviscerated canine carcass are bound to produce lasting memories. Line 3 to Deokcheon station, Exit 3. Turn right at the first street and then left at the first street.
reviewed
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Halmae Jaecheopguk
Hungover in Gwang·an beach? Do what many Koreans do and stumble over to this restaurant respected for hangover remedies disguised as food. Jaecheopguk (재첩국; marsh clam soup) is a clear shellfish broth. Located on Gwang·an's one-way street opposite the Giant Step jazz bar; look for the 24-hour restaurant with a blinding yellow interior.
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Tours from Mipo Wharf
Mipo Wharf, the small wharf at the eastern end of Hae·undae beach, is home base for two ocean tours. The 50-minute circuit runs around Gwang·an Bridge. An 80-minute tour-shuttle service to the Coastal Ferry Terminal in Jungangdong departs Hae·undae every 90 minutes. On the return trip, departures from the Coastal Ferry Terminal start at 10.30.
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Gaemi Jip
The speciality is nakji bokkeum (낙지볶음; octopus stew) a fiery dish that can cause customers to sweat profusely, so keep a good supply of beverages close at hand. Located on a small lane in Nampodong near the steps to Yongdusan Park, it's worth the effort to find this place if you want to try something different.
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Ol' 55
A testosterone-charged tavern with everything a beer-chugging man needs: ale to match budget and taste, a prohibition on hip-hop music and women who play billiards in high-heel shoes and cut-offs. Line 2 to Kyungsung-Pukyong station, Exit 3. Turn 180 degrees, walk to the corner and turn left. Turn left at the second street and right at next block.
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Dolgorae
The interior looks like a penitentiary but the stern women who run this shop serve some of the city's best doenjang jjigae (된장찌개; spicy soy-bean stew). The soup bowls are small but with prices this low, order another set. Located at the end of a narrow lane one block west of the KB bank near B&C Bakery.
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