Pungmi Chueotang

This scruffy-looking restaurant draws people from great distances for the chueotang (추어탕; loach soup). Made from ground loach and leafy cabbage, the dark green soup has a mild taste. If it's too mild, dip into the plastic tubs of seasoning, which includes sancho (산초), a brown spice that adds a rich, earthy flavour when used sparingly.

With a self-serve counter of unlimited side dishes like baked fish and seaweed, it's an outstanding meal and one of the city's best deals. Getting here is not easy, though. Take a taxi from Seomyeon or Sports Complex station, Exit 11, and go to the main gate of Children's Park. Walk along the road to the right of the park entrance and then follow the cement lane another 200m.