Things to do in Gyeongsangbuk Do
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Daegu's Herbal Medicine Market
This market, west of the central shopping district, has a history as vast as its scope. It dates from 1658, making it Korea's oldest and still one of its largest. Begin at the Yangnyeong Exhibition Hall, for an introduction to insam (ginseng), reindeer horns and the people who popularised them - there's usually someone who speaks English at the tourist booth outside who'll show you around.
Head out to the street to stock up on everything from lizard's tails to magic mushrooms (the latter with a prescription, of course); you might also catch a glimpse of someone receiving acupuncture. On the days ending with 1 or 6 (except the 31st), a wholesale market (yangnyeong sijang) …
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Seomun Market
Daegu is a shopper's dream. In addition to good prices on all kinds of 'normal' and brand-name goods (clothes, shoes, bags etc) at the various department stores, Daegu has numerous speciality markets that make for a fascinating stroll even if you're not going to part with any won. Start at the Seomun Market, a hulking, multistorey complex with over 4000 shops in six sections. Bustling yet orderly, it's been one of Korea's big-three markets since opening in 1669, even if the current buildings have little of that historic character. The market is closed on the second and fourth Sunday of each month.
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Jagalmadang
While anti-prostitution laws were recently tightened and the sex trade is supposed to be gone, Jagalmadang is one of Korea's 'big three'; the other two are in Busan and Seoul. Apparently the streets of Jagalmadang were once paved with small stones so that any girls trying to escape (or customers trying to get some action for free) would be heard. Although the lights are mostly pink, not red, it's a curious scene and can be interesting for foreigners, even women.
Don't expect gratis nudity though - the women read, slurp noodles or text-message on their mobile phones.
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Bullo-Dong Tumuli Park
North of town, not far from Daegu airport, Bullo-Dong Tumuli Park covers some 330,000 sq metres. The grassy hillocks rising like bumps across the valley are tumuli (burial mounds, similar to those in Gyeongju). Dating from the 2nd to the 6th century AD, the tumuli are for both nobles and commoners - the higher the location on the hill, the higher the status of the person.
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Dijon
Next door, Into's sister restaurant is surely the only place in Daegu with Riesling on the wine list. Come here for French and Mediterranean dishes (such as a great seared duck breast or roast pork with apple-cider sauce). Candlelight and wood smoke add a romantic ambience, the bread is served warm, and a real rose graces every white-clothed table.
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Daegu National Museum
This museum houses a fine collection of pottery, Buddhist icons and dioramas showing local history. The English-language signage is quite good. The museum is well served by bus lines. From central Daegu take bus 242 or 427 to Daegu National Museum and from Dongdaegu station take bus 814 or 514.
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G2
Come here to bump around in trance-inducing, blacklit darkness. The funk and hip-hop is ear-splitting - just the way most of the crowd wants it. Come after 23:00 or you'll have the place to yourself. Soldiers are asked to leave by 00:30.
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Tombo
Being Korea's third-largest city, Daegu has a gay district with many bars near the express bus terminal. Foreign visitors might start at tiny shot bar Tombo for a mix of 20- to 40-somethings, local and foreign.
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Kaejung
A popular and respected place specialising in chewy and very tasty naengmyeon (cold noodles), and soft tofu. An English menu is available. Jazz tunes croon, and a faux chia-pet hamster add flair.
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Geumgok Samgyetang
A famous favourite easy walking distance from the markets downtown. Order one of its menu's three items: ginseng-infused chicken, barbecue chicken, or a half order of the latter.
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Gangsan Myeonok
One of Daegu's oldest establishments, this eatery is well regarded for naengmyeon, bulgogi and galbi. Plastic food makes for user-friendly ordering.
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Gimbapjang
Nearly across the street from Kaejung, with naengmyeon and mandu at rock-bottom prices. Folk music is incongruously festive in this well-lit greasy spoon.
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Seokryujip
For an only-in-Korea adventure, come here for dog and goat meat, both of which are fabled to have 'stamina-producing' powers in men. It's right behind the gas station.
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Tourist Information Centre Tours
The city tourist information centre offers a series of seven tours that are free for foreigners (not including admission, meals etc). Tour programmes change weekly.
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Into
A European café that serves fine pastas and salads. There are just four tables, but it has a nice variety of French and Italian items on the ever-changing menu.
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Bus
Unmistakable, this bus-turned-pub is on a side street right near G2. It's a popular hang out and it's open all night until lunchtime.
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Hanil Gukjang
There is a huge Xn Milano complex that houses the Hanil Gukjang cinema, where there are often English-language movies.
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Woobang Tower Land
Visitors with kids will want to head to this amusement park, in the huge Duryu Park west of the city centre.
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Yasigolmok
Yasigolmok is the heart of Daegu's shopping district, clothing and fashion outlets, bustling day and night.
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Kyobo Books
Kyobo Books is a good place for English-language books. It's near Jungangno subway station.
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Ariana Bräu
Has food, and then turns into a pub after 20:00, with live music six nights a week.
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