Panmunjom & the Dmz Tour Getting there & around

Getting there & away

Access to Panmunjom is permitted for tour groups only – this is not a do-it-yourself trip. You must have your passport or you won’t be allowed to board the tour bus, and unlike the immigration checks at most world airports, here they actually look at your photograph closely and compare it with your face. Vital too is that you follow the dress and behaviour codes (which, among other things, forbids wearing jeans!), and before you enter the DMZ all visitors must sign a document absolving the UN and the South Korean government of responsibility in case of any injuries due to ‘enemy action’ while on the tour.

The United Service Organizations (USO; 724 7003; www.uso.org/korea), the US army’s social and entertainment organisation at the Yongsan base, runs tours (Tue-Sun, US$40/W40, 000, cash only) that include the Third Tunnel, which was dug by the North Koreans, but not lunch. They start at 8am and finish at 3pm. To reach the USO take subway Line 1 to Namyeong station. It’s about 10 minutes’ walk from Exit 2 –go straight, looking to the left for the USO entrance gate.

Most foreigners will find the USO tour is fine, but if you’d rather not take it, there are other options. Half-day tours with Korean companies cost around W40, 000 and full-day tours cost around W60, 000. Not all the tours are the same, and use caution before putting money down. Ensure they include Panmunjom. Some trips include a visit to the Third Tunnel and some don’t. Visiting the tunnel is worthwhile and you should make sure it’s included in the tour before handing over the cash. Also be sure to check the refund/rescheduling options if a tour is cancelled.