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Introducing Samcheok

Samcheok is a gateway to some gorgeous coastlines, fascinating caves and sculptures. It’s the gateway to Hwanseon Donggul, a huge cave complex under mountains, and is promoting itself as the City of Caves with plenty of cave exhibitions. The area has twice hosted a Penis Sculpture Festival, including a giant phallus-carving contest. Though the festival was shut down by Christian protesters, you can view many of the curious (often comic) contest entries at the shrine and museum at Sinnam. For more about the phallus ‘phascination’, see opposite.

The tourist information centre (575 1330; www.samcheok.go.kr; 9am-6pm) has English-speaking staff. It’s outside the intercity bus terminal.