Sapsido

Introducing Sapsido

This small relaxing island, 13km from Daecheon harbour, has few cars and three relatively unspoilt sandy beaches. It attracts so many visitors that it’s become Minbak Island, with nearly every one of the several hundred households offering accommodation and meals. Minbak (private homes with rooms for rent) are sprinkled around the island but are concentrated around the two ferry jetties. Residents don’t usually lock their houses or cars.

From Sulttung harbour walk for 15 minutes past the primary school to reach Geomeolneomeo beach, with its fine stretch of sand between two rocky headlands, backed by sand dunes and fir trees. The only blots on the landscape are a few huts and the garbage that the tide brings in. Except at high tide, you can walk left and clamber over the rocks to smaller Jinneomeo beach, which takes another 15 minutes. You might see terns, oyster catchers and cormorants. The walk back to Sulttung harbour takes another 15 minutes, past fisher­men repairing their nets and squid (rather than washing) hanging out to dry. Bamseom beach is the largest and least developed.

Accommodation in minbak rooms or huts is more expensive than on the mainland, especially in summer. Almost up to motel standard, Haedotneun (935 1617; Sulttung Harbour; r W40, 000), a red-brick minbak, has rooms with kitchenfacilities. For dinner, order chicken or a fish meal or the excellent doenjang jjigae (; locally caught crab and tofu).

You can dine alfresco and informally at Eommason (meals W1500-10, 000; 11am-9pm) on the harbour side, sitting on plastic stools at oil-drum tables. The menu covers ramyeon (; instant noodles), kalguksu (; thick noodles), shellfish soup and pajeon ().

For a snack or drink, pop into the store located in the owner’s converted front room.

Last updated: Sep 25, 2008