Gallery sights in South America
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Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP)
Sampa's pride, the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) museum possesses Latin America's most comprehensive collection of Western art. Hovering above a concrete plaza that turns into an antiques fair on Sundays, the museum, designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi and completed in 1968, is considered a classic of modernism by many and an abomination by a vocal few. The collection, though, is unimpeachable, and ranges from Goya to El Greco to Manet.
The Impressionist collection is particularly impressive. There are also a few great Brazilian paintings, including three fine works by Cândido Portinari. The museum hosts temporary exhibits, and there is a bright, pleasant cafeteria o…
reviewed
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Casa das Onze Janelas
Once the home of a sugar baron, then a military hospital, the Casa das Onze Janelas now houses an excellent art gallery and one of Belém’s finest restaurants, Boteco das Onze. The medium-sized gallery contains a mix of classical and modern artwork, plus a good photography exhibit upstairs. The café in back has a view of the mouth of the Amazon.
reviewed
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Galería de Arte Nacional
The new, nearly completed National Art Gallery was inaugurated by Hugo Chávez in 2009 and now stands as Venezuela’s physically largest museum. Construction on its nearly 31,000 sq meters originally began in 1989 but was abandoned in the mid-’90s. Architect Carlos Gómez persevered and construction resumed in 2006. Its exhibition galleries are complete and house a selection from the 7000-piece collection that embraces five centuries of Venezuelan artistic expression. Anything from pre-Hispanic art to mind-boggling modern kinetic pieces may be showcased here in temporary exhibitions. Venezuela’s four most important artists – Arturo Michelena, Armando Reverón, Carlos Cruz Die…
reviewed
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Iglesia San Francisco
More austere than many of Cuzco’s other churches, Iglesia San Francisco dates from the 16th and 17th centuries, and is one of the few that didn’t need to be completely reconstructed after the 1650 earthquake. It has a large collection of colonial religious paintings and a well-carved cedar choir.
The attached museum houses supposedly the largest painting in South America, which measures 9m by 12m and shows the family tree of St Francis of Assisi, the founder of the order. Also of macabre interest are the two crypts, which are not totally underground. Inside are plenty of human bones, some of which have been carefully arranged in designs meant to remind visitors of the…
reviewed
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Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP)
Sampa's pride, this museum possesses Latin America's most comprehensive collection of Western art. Hovering above a concrete plaza that turns into an antiques fair on Sunday, the museum, designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi and completed in 1968, is considered a classic of Modernism by many and an abomination by a vocal few. The collection, though, is unimpeachable, and ranges from Goya to El Greco to Manet.
The Impressionist collection is particularly, ahem, impressive. There are also a few great Brazilian paintings, including three fine works by Cândido Portinari. The museum hosts some fabulous temporary exhibits, and there is a bright, pleasant cafeteria on the lower le…
reviewed
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Museo de Arte de Lima
Known locally as MALI, Lima’s principal fine art museum is housed in a striking beaux arts building that, in 2009, underwent an extensive interior renovation. (The museum is scheduled to reopen sometime in 2010.) Until the reopening, small exhibits of objects from the excellent permanent collection – which includes pre-Columbian artifacts, colonial furniture and cutting-edge installation art by contemporary artists – can be found at Casa Wiese (Carabaya 501; [hrs] 10am-8pm Tue-Sun), a temporary exhibit space in Central Lima run by a local cultural foundation.
reviewed
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Zavaleta Lab
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
reviewed
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Ruth Benzacar
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
reviewed
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Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
reviewed
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Hollywood in Cambodia
The city has a number of street art collectives, the most famous of which are Bs As Stencil, Burzaco Stencil and Fase. Some artists, such as Pum Pum (whose work can be seen on the walls of Mundo Bizarro) and Dani Dan (www.danidan.com.ar), have become celebrities on the underground street art circuit. To check out the captivating work by these and other local artists, head to Hollywood in Cambodia, a Palermo Viejo gallery that specializes in street art.
reviewed
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Centro Brasileiro de Estudos Latino Americano
Centro Brasileiro de Estudos Latino Americano (CBEAL) is a cultural and research foundation, housed in the Memorial da América Latina complex. It includes an auditorium that stages free concerts, and various interesting handicraft exhibits from regional Brazil and other Latin American countries. Cândido Portinari's painting Tiradentes hangs in the Salão de Atos, and huge panels by Carybé and Poty Lazzarotto represent the people of South America.
reviewed
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Museo Fortabat
Rivaling Palermo’s MALBA museum for cutting-edge looks is this fancy art museum. It shows off the collection of multi-millionairess Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, Argentina’s wealthiest woman. The museum’s airy salons exhibit works by famous Argentine and international artists – look for Warhol’s take on Fortabat herself. Movable aluminum panels above the roof open and close, keeping sun off the glassy ceiling. Call ahead for tours in English.
reviewed
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Centro de Referência do Artesanato Brasileiro
This new museum, which opened in 2009, showcases the craft-making traditions all across Brazil. Changing exhibits feature woodcarvings, ceramics, textiles, jewelry, metal work, basket weaving and even recycled materials in the creation of both popular and sacred art. Although nothing here is for sale, if you’re interested in a particular piece, the staff can provide contact information for any of the artists represented.
reviewed
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Centro Cultural Justiça Federal
The stately building overlooking the Praça Floriano served as the headquarters of the Supreme Court (Supremo Tribunal Federal) from 1909 to 1960. Following its recent restoration, it’s become the Federal Justice Cultural Center, featuring exhibitions focused above all on photography and Brazilian art, though some fascinating exhibits from abroad sometimes make their way here. There’s a pleasant café on the ground floor.
reviewed
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Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano
Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano, home of the couple who developed the leafy, upscale suburb of Morumbi, this house turned museum makes a fine retreat as much for its gardens as for its collection of painting, sculpture and objets d'art from the 18th to 20th centuries. The 1950s house is a small masterpiece of Brazilian modernism and there's a lovely café that serves traditional high tea.
reviewed
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Centro Cultural Dannemann
In São Félix, the riverfront Centro Cultural Dannemann has modern art displayed throughout a converted warehouse. In a large room in the rear of the building, heavy with the rich smell of tobacco, women dressed in white with flowered head wraps sit at antique wooden tables rolling charutos (cigars), as has been done here since 1873. Dannemann cigars are considered Brazil’s finest.
reviewed
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Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
Sparkling inside its glass walls, this airy modern arts museum is BA’s fanciest. Art patron Eduardo Costantini displays his limited but fine collection, which includes work by Argentines Xul Solar and Antonio Berni, plus some pieces by Mexicans Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. A cinema screens art-house films, and there’s an excellent cafe for watching the beautiful people.
reviewed
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Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes
Housed in the neo-Gothic–style Palacio Vergara, the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes has interesting collection of 17th- to 19th-century European and Chilean art that includes works by Murillo, Modigliani, Rubens and Sorolla y Bastida. Major concerts and the celebrated Festival Internacional de la Canción are held in the striking concrete amphitheater in the grounds.
reviewed
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Matriz NS do Pilar
On the southwest side of town, the Matriz NS do Pilar is the second-most-opulent church in Brazil (after Salvador’s São Francisco). It has 434kg of gold and silver and is one of Brazil’s finest showcases of artwork. Note the wild-bird chandelier holders, the scrolled church doors and the hair on Jesus (the real stuff, donated by a penitent worshipper).
reviewed
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Social Realist-inspired Murals
Thanks to a local law that requires major new buildings to include public art, central Medellín can seem like a vast, outdoor art gallery. For a different take on Medellín's history, check out the Social Realist-inspired murals by Pedro Nel Gómez displayed in two long showcases on the corner of Carrera 51 and Calle 51, just off Parque Berrío.
reviewed
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Museo a Cielo Abierto
Some 20 colorful, if rather flaky, murals are dotted through the lower streets of Cerro Bellavista, forming the Museo a Cielo Abierto, created between 1969 and 1973 by students from the Universidad Católica’s Instituto de Arte. The Ascensor Espíritu Santo takes you from behind Plaza Victoria to the heart of this art.
reviewed
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Arte X Arte
Art-gallery lovers shouldn’t miss this large exhibition space, which takes up 1800 sq meters (not bad for an alternative gallery). Anyone can just enter and see what’s on display, which can range from photography to digital art to video installations. It’s all contemporary, and there’s a library and auditorium as well. Closed December through March.
reviewed
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Museo de Bellas Artes
Salta's fine art museum is lodged in the Arias Rengel family's two-story colonial mansion, with its 2m (6.6ft) thick adobe walls. It displays both modern painting and sculpture, and has far more interesting work than the contemporary arts museum. The interior patio features a sculpture garden and a wooden staircase that leads to a hanging balcony.
reviewed
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Centro de Arte Hélio Oiticica
This avant-garde museum is set in a 19th-century neoclassical building that originally housed the Conservatory of Music and Dramatic Arts. Today, the center displays permanent works by the artist, theoretician and poet Hélio Oiticica, as well as bold contemporary art exhibitions, well-tuned to Oiticica’s progressive aesthetics.
reviewed
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Caracas
Occupying the eastern end of the Parque Central complex, the Museum of Contemporary Art is by far the best in the country, if not on the continent. In a dozen halls on five levels, you’ll find big, bold and sometimes shocking works by many prominent Venezuelan artists, including Jesús Soto, famous for his kinetic pieces.
reviewed






