Restaurants in South America
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A
Los Toldos
A local favorite for abundant cheap eats, this rotisserie restaurant features a worthwhile salad bar (try the black olive sauce). Most people can’t go past the Peruvian classic cuarto de pollo (quarter of a chicken), done here to perfection.
reviewed
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B
Crepes & Waffles
One of 35 Bogotá locations of this ever-busy chain – which employs women in need – we like this one best: a two-story brick home with sidewalk seats between Zona G and Zona Rosa. Like the others, it serves up veggie, meat and seafood crepes, plus irresistible ice cream–topped waffles (COP$5000).
reviewed
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C
Zazá Bistro Tropical
Inside an art-filled and whimsically decorated converted house, Zazá serves satisfying dishes with Eastern accents, and uses organic ingredients when possible. Two favorites: curry chicken with coconut milk and basmati rice; and semi-raw tuna with vegetables, grilled shrimp and passion fruit sauce. Upstairs, diners lounge on throw pillows, while candles glow along the walls. You can also sit at one of the tables on the front.
reviewed
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D
Magic Bean
Long the epicenter of the Mariscal, the Magic Bean serves a variety of well-prepared breakfasts, lunches, juices and snacks for the ever-present crowd of hungry travelers.
reviewed
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E
Jack’s Café
- Cuzco, Peru
- Restaurants › Cafe
A line often snakes out the door at this Western-style, Australian-run eatery. With fresh juices blended with mint or ginger, strong coffee and eggs heaped with smoked salmon or roasted tomatoes, it’s easy to get out of bed. Also has nice cafe food, soups and good service.
reviewed
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Bacalhau do Tuga
Since opening in 2009, the ‘Tuga’ (Portuguese guy) has been drawing throngs of people to this beachfront hole-in-the-wall, mixing classic Portuguese codfish recipes with local specialties such as peixe grelhado com molho de manga (grilled fish with mango sauce).
reviewed
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F
Kaupé
For an out-of-body seafood experience, head to this candlelit house overlooking the bay. Chef Ernesto Vivian employs the freshest of everything and service is impeccable. The tasting menu (AR$360 with wine and champagne) features two starters, a main dish and dessert, with standouts such as king crab and spinach chowder or black sea bass in blackened butter.
reviewed
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G
Cumaná
This bright, upbeat eatery is one of the only places in town serving traditional dishes from far-flung provinces of Argentina. The hearty criollo (Spanish/Indian) cuisine baking in the adobe oven includes locro, a thick corn-based stew made with meat and vegetables. Don’t miss the humita, a creamy cheese and corn mixture wrapped up in corncob leaves.
reviewed
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H
El Boliche de Alberto
It’s worth dining at this esteemed parrilla simply to see the astonished look on tourists’ faces when a slab of beef the size of a football lands on the table; it’s the AR$70 bife de chorizo (the AR$60 portion is plenty).
reviewed
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Cafecito
A few steps above street level, this open-air café attracts a mix of foreigners and neighborhood regulars (the Argentine owner is a longtime Santa Teresa resident). You'll find imported beers, desserts, cocktails (caiprinhas and mojitos), tapas plates and gourmet sandwiches (with ingredients like smoked trout, artichoke hearts and prosciutto).
reviewed
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J
Granja Heidi
- Cuzco, Peru
- Restaurants › Cafe
A cozy Alpine cafe serving healthy fare, some of it provided from the small farm of the German owner. In addition to Peruvian fare (rocoto relleno is served vegetarian, with stuffed chili and peanuts), there are crepes and huge bowls of soups and salads. Save room for dessert.
reviewed
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K
California Café
Run by Tim, from California no less, this hip pad does breakfasts at any time, plus light lunches and salads – it’s a funky, chilled space to while away many hours. You can spend the day listening to the sublime world music collection or reading one of the hundreds of books available for exchange. Wi-fi is a godsend to laptop junkies and rich espressos and dozens of herbal teas will keep you sipping till closing time. Tim is active in the development of ecotourism in the Cordillera Huayhuash and is a goldmine of information on that area. He organizes ‘ultimate Frisbee’ games every Friday.
reviewed
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L
Minuteman Revolutionary Pizza
This convivial spot, inside the Toñito Hotel, run by Chris from Boston and his Bolivian wife Sussy, is a deserved travelers’ favorite with the best pizzas in town, tasty alternatives like salads, pastas and sandwiches and fantastic desserts. It’s also a cozy spot for a beer or candlelit glass of Tarija wine or a hearty breakfast (B$20 to B$30) with all you can drink coffee or tea. If you have old sunglasses, you can do a good deed – drop them off here and they’ll be donated to the salt workers in Colchani.
reviewed
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M
Las Vacas Gordas
Steak, pork, chicken and vegetables sizzle on the giant grill at the front of the clattering main dining area, then dead-pan old-school waiters cart it over to your table. This popular steakhouse is often packed, so reserve or get there early.
reviewed
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N
Restaurant Huaca Pucllana
This sophisticated establishment overlooks the illuminated ruins at Huaca Pucllana. The menu consists of a skillfully rendered and beautifully presented array of contemporary Peruvian dishes (from grilled cuy to seafood chowders), along with a smattering of Italian-fusion specialties. Save room for the pisco and lemon parfait come dessert.
reviewed
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O
Porcão Rio’s
Set in the Parque do Flamengo with a stunning view of Pão de Açúcar, Porcão Rio’s is consistently ranked by restaurant critics as the city’s best churrascaria. Whether you believe the hype – or simply come for the view – you’re in for an eating extravaganza. Arrive early, both to score a good table and to see the view before sunset.
reviewed
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P
El Desnivel
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and – of course – the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
reviewed
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Q
Campo Bravo
While this chic parrilla (grill restaurant) is a relaxing place to tackle a huge steak or a pasta during the day, at night it's a very different beast indeed. While the staff remain cool, on a busy night you can wait up to an hour for a table - it's the price you pay for hanging with the most stylish crowd in Las Cañitas.
reviewed
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R
La Puerta Falsa
This is Bogotá's most famous snack shop – with displayed multicolored candies beckoning you into this tiny spot that's been in business since 1816. Some complain it's nothing but foreigners with their Lonely Planet guides these days, but don't buy it – there were no other gringos on a Saturday morning in September. The moist tamales and chocolate completo (hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread and a biscuit; COP$5000) remain a Bogotá snack of lore.
reviewed
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S
Moliendo Café
From Ecuador’s neighbors to the north, the hearty arepas (maize pancake) are a specialty here. Topped with anything from beans and cheese to slow-cooked pork, they go well with cold beer or a strong Juan Valdez. Whether you get a little or a lot, it’s essentially old-fashioned comfort food, Colombian-style.
reviewed
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T
Gran Bar Danzon
Gran Bar Danzon is the kind of place you drop by with the intention of trying a glass of wine or two with friends – but thanks to the cool urban atmosphere, you’re still there four hours later, sampling sushi and confit of duck and pretending not to stare at the parade of pretty people squeezing past your table.
reviewed
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U
Confitería Bolsi
More than a confitería, this traditional place (it's been going since 1960) serves everything from sandwiches to curried rabbit and garlic pizza. Try the surubí casa nostra (a superb selection of different pasta types and flavors on one dish).
reviewed
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V
Tiestos
Though a hair on the pricey side, one reader claimed they're the best steaks in Ecuador. Formerly known as Las Brasas de San Juan, this grill house is lovely, the owners are friendly and you definitely get what you pay for. Pizzas and pastas too.
reviewed
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W
Fez
Have you been craving authentic falafel ever since you landed in South America? Step up to the counter here and order yourself a sandwich dripping with juicy goodness. Crêpes are equally delicious. Garden tables are out back.
reviewed
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X
El Cuartito
Since 1934, this legendary pizzeria has seen local men polishing off slices at the counter and families sharing fresh empanadas (savory-filled pastries) at tables, surrounded by faded images of sportsmen.
reviewed