Sights in Durban
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uShaka Marine World
Divided into several areas (Sea World, Wet’n’Wild World and uShaka Beach), uShaka Marine World boasts one of the world’s largest aquariums, the biggest collection of sharks in the southern hemisphere, a seal stadium, a dolphinarium, marine animals and exhibits, a mock-up 1940s steamer wreck featuring two classy restaurants, a shopping centre, enough freshwater rides to make you seasick, and a beach featuring activities from surfing lessons to kayaking.
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Beachfront
You'll either love or hate the Durban beachfront and sandy beaches. If you dip into the city's summer surf and sun, you have a playground of more than 6km of warm-water beaches (protected by the requisite shark nets). The 'Golden Mile' Beaches run from Blue Lagoon (at the mouth of the Umgeni River) to uShaka Marine World on the Point. The 'private' beaches near the casino and uShaka Marine World are accessed through the venues themselves.
But Durban's beachfront ain't for everyone. To some, its smorgasbord of bars and restaurants and hectic holiday atmosphere are garish and tacky. If you do take the plunge, always swim in patrolled areas, which are indicated by flags.
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KwaMuhle Museum
The excellent KwaMuhle Museum is a must-see for those interested in understanding South Africa. This was formerly Bantu Administration headquarters, where Durban’s colonial authorities formulated the structures of urban racial segregation (the ‘Durban System’), the blueprints of South Africa’s apartheid policy. There are powerful displays on urban Durban as it was, plus another on Cato Manor, Durban’s contemporary informal settlement and the site of the new South Africa’s ambitious urban-renewal program.
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Old Courthouse Museum
The Old Courthouse Museum is in the beautiful 1866 courthouse behind the City Hall. It offers a worthwhile insight into the highs and lows of colonial living and houses an interesting sugar-mill exhibit. Among the wonderful displays of colonial items – from pipes to necklaces – there’s a display of corresponding Zulu items; identifying them is especially fun for kids (and some adults, too).
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Botanic Gardens
The Botanic Gardens is a 20-hectare garden with one of the rarest cycads, Encephalartos woodii, as well as many species of bromeliad, and is a pleasant place to wander. On weekends local bridal parties galore pose with their petals for the photographers. The gardens play host to an annual concert series featuring the KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra and other concerts.
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Temple of Understanding
Temple of Understanding, situated 8km west of Durban, is the biggest Hare Krishna temple in the southern hemisphere. This unusual building, designed in the shape of a lotus flower, also houses a vegetarian restaurant. Follow the N3 towards Pietermaritzburg and then branch off to the N2 south. Take the Chatsworth turn-off and turn right towards the centre of Chatsworth.
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Campbell Collections
The Campbell Collections are well worth seeing. Muckleneuk, a superb house designed by Sir Herbert Baker, holds the documents and artefacts collected by Dr Killie Campbell and her father Sir Marshall Campbell (KwaMashu township is actually named after him), which are extremely important records of early Natal and Zulu culture.
Killie Campbell began collecting works by black artists 60 years before the Durban Gallery did so, and she was the first patron of Barbara Tyrrell, who recorded the traditional costumes of the indigenous peoples. Her paintings beautifully convey clothing and decoration, and the grace of the people wearing them.
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Phansi Museum
The Phansi Museum houses a private collection of Southern African tribal artefacts, displayed in the basement of a Victorian home. Owner-collector Paul Mikula has amassed outstanding examples of contemporary sculptures, beadwork of KwaZulu-Natal, carved statues, and artefacts from pipes to fertility dolls.
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Art Gallery
The Art Gallery houses an excellent collection of contemporary South African works, especially Zulu arts and crafts, and has both temporary and rotating exhibitions (look out for the collection of baskets from Hlabisa, finely woven from a variety of grasses and incorporating striking natural colours).
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Promenade
The Promenade is the pedestrianised tourist superhighway running up the beach from Smith St north of uShaka. On the other side of the road, particularly along Marine Pde, you will find the canyon of high-rise hotels, bars, restaurants and nightclubs typical of seaside cities from Florida to Queensland.
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Kwazulu Natal Society of Arts
The Kwazulu Natal Society of Arts is a not-for-profit gallery that has temporary exhibitions of modern art. Its outdoor cafe, set under shady trees, is a lovely place post peruse. A gift shop is also within the complex.
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Umgeni River Bird Park
Umgeni River Bird Park, on the Umgeni River, makes for a relaxing escape from the throng. You can see many African bird species in lush vegetation and aviaries. Look out for the chicks in the ‘baby room’.
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Sugar Terminal
Maydon Wharf, which runs along the southwestern side of the harbour and south of Margaret Mncadi Ave, contains the Sugar Terminal, which offers an insight into the former importance of the sugar trade.
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Natural Science Museum
The Natural Science Museum boasts an impressive display of stuffed birds and insects, plus African animals. Check out the cockroach and dung beetle displays, the reconstructed dodo and the life-sized dinosaur model.
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Port Natal Maritime Museum
The Port Natal Maritime Museum is on a service road running parallel to Margaret Mncadi Ave. You can explore two former steam tugs and see the huge wicker basket once used for hoisting passengers onto ocean liners.
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Vasco da Gama Clock
The Vasco da Gama Clock, a florid Victorian monument on the Embankment just east of Stalwart Simelane St (Stanger St), was presented by the Portuguese government in 1897, the 400th anniversary of Vasco da Gama’s sighting of Natal.
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Old House Museum
The Old House Museum is the restored home of Natal’s first prime minister. Although this is interesting, be aware that this is in a slightly isolated, less savoury part of town.
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City Hall
Dominating the city centre is the opulent 1910 Edwardian neobaroque City Hall. In front of the hall is Francis Farewell Sq, where Fynn and Farewell made their camp in 1824.
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Harbour
Durban's harbour is the busiest in Southern Africa (and the ninth busiest in the world). A pleasant place to view the activity is from Wilson's Wharf or the balcony at the BAT Centre.
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Dick King Statue
The Dick King Statue, near Gardiner St, commemorates the historic ride of this teenager in 1842 to fetch a British frigate, after the Boers took control of Durban.
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Alayam Hindu Temple
Alayam Hindu Temple is the oldest and biggest in South Africa. It's away from the main Indian area, on Somtseu Rd, which runs between Stanger St and NMR Ave.
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Church Square
On the eastern side of the main post office on Dr Pixley KaSeme St (West St) is Church Square, with its old vicarage and the 1909 St Paul’s Church.
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Madrassa Arcade
Madrassa Arcade is next to the Juma Mosque in the Indian area, between Grey St and Cathedral Rd near the Catholic Emmanuel Cathedral.
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Mini Town
Mini Town is a typically tacky model city with replicas of Durban's best-known buildings of the 1970s - best for the mini adults.
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Sun Coast Beach
The casino's Sun Coast Beach is a safe and pleasant spot to lie and bake. It has lawn, deck chairs and brollies.
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