At the heart of Pretoria, imposing public buildings surround Church Sq. These include the Palace of Justice, where the Rivonia Trial that sentenced Nelson Mandela to life imprisonment was held, on the northern side; the Ou Raadsaal (Old Government) building on the southern side; the Old Capitol Theatre in the northwestern corner; First National Bank in the northeast; the Old Nederlandsche Bank building, which adjoins the Café Riche and houses the Tourist Information Centre; and the main post office at the western side. Look for the clock, surrounded by nude figures by Anton van Wouw, above the Church Sq ­entrance to the post office.

‘Old Lion’, Paul Kruger takes pride of place in the centre, surveying his miniature kingdom. The bronze figures of Kruger and the sentries, also by Van Wouw, were cast in Italy at the turn of the century but lay in storage until 1954. In the early days, Boers from the surrounding countryside would gather in the square every three months for nagmaal (communion).