Getting there & away
From Jijiga in eastern Ethiopia there’s regular bus traffic to the border town of Wajaale. It takes about 1½ to two hours, depending on the number of punctures, and costs Birr15. Get stamped out at the Ethiopian immigration office (look for the MAO building on the main street), cross no-man’s-land to Somaliland’s immigration shack, where your passport will be stamped and your visa checked. Then take a taxi (about US$30) or a minibus (about US$4) to Hargeisa (two hours, 88km). Expect a couple of checkpoints, but no hassles.
Daallo Airlines, the national carrier, operates weekly services from Jeddah, London and Paris to Djibouti, from where there are connections to Hargeisa (Somaliland) and Mogadishu (southern Somalia). It also has flights from Djibouti to other smaller Somali destinations, including Bosasso (Puntland; US$192, two hours). Ethiopian Airlines offers flights from Addis Ababa to Hargeisa (US$285 return, two hours), while Djibouti Airlines flies from Djibouti to Hargeisa (US$100, 45 minutes) and from Hargeisa to Aden (Yemen) and Dubai.