Snuggled beneath the broody High Tatras peaks, Kežmarok's pocket-sized Old Town square with distinctive churches and a small castle seems especially agreeable. The influence of original 13th-century Germanic settlers pervades in the architecture even today. During July the European Folk Craft Market – one of the nation's largest – comes to town.
From the adjacent bus and train stations, 1km northwest of the pedestrian centre, follow Dr Alexandra street to the main square, Hlavné nám. The red-and-green, pseudo-Moorish New Evangelical Church, c 1894, dominates the south end of town. Admission covers entry to the more evocative Old Wooden Evangelical Church, built in 1717 without a single nail. It has an amazing interior of carved and painted wood, as well as an original organ.
At the other end of the square, the stumpy, mansionlike 15th-century Kežmarok Castle is a museum with period furniture and archaeology exhibits.
You'll find cafes aplenty around pedestrianised Hlavné nám. If you're staying overnight, try the diminutive but elegant Hotel Hviezdoslav on this square, in the former house of the famed Slovak poet of the same name; it has a good restaurant. Bus connections also mean the town is a viable day trip from the High Tatras.
Kežmarok Information Agency has loads more information. Buses connect directly to Poprad (€1, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Tatranská Lomnica (€1, 30 minutes, hourly), Ždiar (€1.60, 40 minutes, four daily or change in Tatranskå Lomnica) and Levoča (€1.30, one hour, four daily or change in Poprad).