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Ya Kun Kaya Toast & Coffee
Though a chain of them is now spread across the island, none matches this for a sense of the original 1940s coffee, kaya (coconut jam) toast and runny-egg stall that spawned it. Grab a seat inside for a ringside view of the bustling, yelling, no-nonsense staff. Traditional Singapore breakfast at its cholesterol-laden, caffeine-charged, sugar-fuelled best.
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Yong He Eating House
Despite the fear of being spotted in Geylang at night, people flock to this all-night joint for its famous hot soya bean milk, sweet bean-curd desserts and pork floss, though it's a bit too close to the sleaze for some.
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Yum Cha Restaurant
This capacious place with broad clattering floorboards and grumpy trolley ladies serves from early till late, so there's no excuse for going hungry. Munch into bite-sized prawn-and-abalone or crystal-chive dumplings at bite-sized prices.
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Zam Zam
These guys have been here since 1908, so we figure they probably know what they're doing. Tenure hasn't bred complacency - the touts attempt to herd moving cars through the door as frenetic chefs whip up murtabaks (mutton-, chicken- or vegetable-filled flaky, flat bread).
