Onsen Sights
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Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan
This massive and unmistakable compound has more than 15 kinds of baths, ranging from take-your-skin-off scalding to cryogenic freeze-inducing cold.
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Gosho-no-yu
Lovely log construction, a nice two-level rotemburo and fine maple colours in autumn. The entry area is decorated like the Kyoto Gosho (Imperial Palace).
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Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen
Onsen lovers will be in heaven here. The outdoor baths are in the rocks by the sea and can only be entered at or close to low tide. You can walk to the baths from the Kaichū Onsen bus stop, but the next stop, Nishikaikon, is actually closer. From Nishikaikon, walk downhill towards the sea for about 200m and take a right at the bottom of the hill. Note that this is a konyoku onsen (mixed bath), so if you're shy, you'll just have to wait until other bathers clear off, as swimsuits are not allowed.
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Murono-yu
A simple onsen in front of Shirahama post office, on the way to the Sakino-yu Onsen.
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Noboribetsu Grand Hotel
Half the price (and size), the star attraction is the domed ceiling, giving the impression of a spacious Roman-era bath.
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Nyūtō Onsen
Nyūtō is one of Japan's choicest hot springs, and a must-visit for any aspiring onsen aficionado. The area is home to no fewer than eight rustic ryokan, each with a different character and different baths. All offer healing waters that are great for an away-from-it-all soak. Many also feature konyoku or mixed-sex baths (when it comes to bathing, the Japanese certainly aren't shy!) The two most famous bathhouses are Tsuru-no-yu and Kuroyu .
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Onoaida Onsen
In the village of Onoaida is a rustic indoor bathhouse that is divided by gender. Expect to rub shoulders with the village elders here. It's about 350m uphill from the Onoaida Onsen bus stop.
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Rotemburo Shrine
Going anticlockwise around the island, Furusato Kankō hotel has a waterside rotemburo-shrine that's accessible for onsen-only visitors, nestled among rocks at the foot of an impressively gnarled 210-year-old tree. Guests wear yukata (bathing kimono) in the water, so that men and women can bathe together. There's a free shuttle service to and from the port, departing roughly every half-hour except during lunchtime and when the onsen is closed.
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Sakino-yu Onsen
A fantastic bath built on a rocky point with great views of the Pacific Ocean (and you can climb down the rocks to cool off if the waves aren't too big). Come early in the day to beat the crowds. It's 1km south of the main beach; walk along the seafront road and look for the point below the big Hotel Seymor.
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Shirara-yu
A pleasant bath right on the north end of Shirara-hama (the main beach).
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Shirasuna-yu
An open-air onsen off the boardwalk in the middle of Shirara-hama. You can soak here and then dash into the ocean to cool off – not a bad way to spend an afternoon.
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Yachigashira Onsen
On the southern edge of Hakodate-yama is this enormous hot spring, one of Hokkaidō's oldest, with dark iron-laden water. To get here, take tram 2 to Yachigashira, the final stop. On foot, continue to the first intersection and then turn right – you'll see the public bathhouse complex on the left shortly after you turn.
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Yudomari Onsen
About 600m west is another great seaside onsen that can be entered at any tide. Get off at the Yudomari bus stop and take the road opposite the post office in the direction of the sea. Once you enter the village, the way is marked. It's a 300m walk and you pass a great banyan tree en route.
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