Introducing Beau Vallon & the North Coast

A long, brilliant white arc of sands laced by palms and takamaka trees, Beau Vallon (on Mahé's northwest coast, 3km from Victoria) boasts the most popular beach in Mahé. Here the water is deep enough for swimming, but watch out for large swells between June and November. It's overbuilt by Seychellois standards (the ugly architecture of the Coral Strand hotel, which was closed at the time of writing, doesn't help), but you'll find it remarkably low-key and quiet if you have experienced other tropical destinations. The seaside ambience, with fishermen selling fresh fish late in the afternoon in the shade of takamaka trees, adds a dash of real life to the area.

Beau Vallon is the main destination on the northwest coast because of its beach and tourist infrastructure, but there's also some great scenery north, up the coast to Glacis and North Point. With your own wheels, it's a scenic drive on a narrow road that hugs the coastline, with intermittent, lovely views over secluded coves at the foot of the cliffs. Here's a secret, only known to locals (whisper it softly): Carana Beach. This tiny, dreamlike cove lapped by lapis lazuli waters offers a small patch of sand framed by big boulders, with a couple of palm trees leaning over the shore. It's at Northeast Point; look for a cement road on the left, in a high gradient descent of the road, or ask locals.

From Northeast Point, you can head down to Victoria via Anse Étoile.

West of Beau Vallon, the coastal road goes past Bel Ombre, which has a few good accommodation options and a little fishing harbour, and ends at Danzil, where La Scala restaurant lies. From there, you can walk to Anse Major. Ah, Anse Major…