Things to do in West & North Mainland
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Ring of Brodgar
Situated about a mile north of Stenness, along the road towards Skara Brae, is this wide circle of standing stones, some over 5m tall. Last of the three Stenness monuments to be built (2500–2000 BC), it remains a most atmospheric location. Twenty-one of the original 60 stones still stand among the heather. These mysterious giants, their curious shapes mutilated by years of climatic onslaught, fire the imagination – what were they for? On a grey day with dark clouds thudding low across the sky, the stones look secretive and seem to be almost sneering at the jostling summer crowds. Free guided tours leave from the carpark at 1pm from June to August.
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Maes Howe
Egypt has the pyramids, Scotland has Maes Howe. Constructed about 5000 years ago, it’s the a Stone Age tomb built from enormous sandstone blocks, some of which weighed many tons and were brought from several miles away. Though nothing is known about who was interred here, the scope of the project suggests it was a structure of great significance.
Creeping down the long stone passageway to the central chamber, over 6.7m high and 3.5m wide, you begin to sense the indescribable gulf of years that separate us from the architects of this mysterious place.
No remains were found when the tomb was excavated in the 19th century, so it’s not known how many people were originally …
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Hamnavoe Restaurant
Tucked away off the main street, this Stromness favourite specialises in excellent local seafood backed up by professional service. There’s always something good off the boats, and the chef prides himself on his lobster. Booking is a must. From November to March, it’s only open Saturday and Sunday for dinner; in summer it also opens for lobster lunches on Saturday.
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Stromness Museum
Crammed with fascinating artefacts from maritime and natural-history collections covering whaling, the Hudson’s Bay Company and the sunken German fleet in Scapa Flow, this is a superb museum where you can easily lose a couple of hours nosing around the display cases.
Among the more unusual exhibits are South Sea Islander artefacts left here by the survivors of Captain Cook’s final expedition to the Pacific in 1776–79, and the tiny inflatable boat used by Dr John Rae in his Arctic explorations.
Across the street from the museum is the house where local poet and novelist George Mackay Brown lived from 1968 until his death in 1996. Further south on the main street is Lo…
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Julia’s Café & Bistro
This cafe with a conservatory, opposite the port, keeps all-comers happy, with massive fry-ups offset on the cardiac karma scale by the wraps, salads and tempting vegetarian dishes such as nut roast or couscous. In summer it opens for dinner with elaborate fare (£10 to £13) on offer.
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Pier Arts Centre
Resplendently redesigned, this gallery has really rejuvenated the Orkney modern-art scene with its sleek lines and upbeat attitude. It’s worth a look as much for the architecture as its high-quality collection of 20th-century British art and the changing exhibitions.
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Ferry Inn
Every port has its pub, and in Stromness it’s the Ferry. Convivial and central, it warms the cockles with folk music, local beers and characters, and pub food that’s unsophisticated but generously proportioned and good value.
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Stromness Hotel
This central hotel does excellent seafood dishes fused with tastes of the Orient, and there are vegetarian options. There’s a lounge bar with harbour views, or the earthier, convivial Flattie Bar downstairs.
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Bistro 76
This is an intimate cellar restaurant with a standout menu that will entice most palates through the door (from steak lovers to vegetarians). It’s located under the Orca Hotel.
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Stromness Cafe-Bar
This quirky little space, with attached shop, is good for a snack or even something more substantial. Orkney beer is available and best enjoyed on the back terrace overlooking the water.
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Walking
The main recreation in Stromness is simply strolling back and forth along the narrow, atmospheric main street.
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Diving Cellar
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Scapa Scuba
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Skara Brae & Skaill House
A visit to extraordinary Skara Brae, one of the world's most evocative prehistoric sites, offers the best opportunity in Scotland for a glimpse of Stone Age life. Idyllically situated by a sandy bay 8 miles north of Stromness, and predating Stonehenge and the pyramids of Giza, Skara Brae is northern Europe's best-preserved prehistoric village.
Even the stone furniture – beds, boxes and dressers – has survived the 5000 years since a community lived and breathed here. It was hidden until 1850, when waves whipped up by a severe storm eroded the sand and grass above the beach, exposing the houses underneath. There's an excellent interactive exhibit and short video, arming vis…
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